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Etiquette when finding booty?

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By caughtinside
From Berkeley, CA
Nov 16, 2008

Tony Bubb wrote:
How did you get to the store before the car? Shouldn't stop you from using the car if it lets you get to the store... How did they do surgery before antesthetic? Again... In my opinion, when a tool is available to someone (*everyone reading this) they should use it to do what they think is best. I don't think I'd be angry is someone cleaned a piece I left and kept it. But I'd sure be thankful if they decided to return in instead. There's and onls saying: "That's not right" Doesn't mean that what was done was wrong... but it also wasn't right.


1. horse and cart.
2. ether, wiskey and a sawbones.

Booty is a tradition!

Admit it... have you ever done a route JUST BECAUSE you saw some gear on it? I have, lots of times!!


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By The Larry
Nov 16, 2008
Touching the sun on the Mexican Caulk Gun.

caughtinside wrote:
1. horse and cart. 2. ether, wiskey and a sawbones. Booty is a tradition! Admit it... have you ever done a route JUST BECAUSE you saw some gear on it? I have, lots of times!!


Those are some of my favorite routes. Gotta love the BOOTY!!!111

I bootied a cam on route on El Cap one fall. Later that winter I meet and climbed with a dude in Jtree. I found out he had done the previous ascent. While climbing together he noticed the cam I had found was his. He was like hey that's my cam and I was like yeah I found it on so and so pitch. We laughed about it but I sure as hell didn't give it back and he didn't ask for it back because it was BOOTY!!!


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By Tony B
From Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2008
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

caughtinside wrote:
Booty is a tradition! Admit it... have you ever done a route JUST BECAUSE you saw some gear on it? I have, lots of times!!


I have too, but then I post it. IE: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_ca>>>>>
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/lost_and_found/stuck_cam_cl>>>>>

When I locate the owner, which many times I have, I also tell them or show them how I got it out so that they can get it next time...


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By Jim O'Brien
Administrator
From Branford, CT
Nov 21, 2008
My new avi

If you find gear on a route, it's booty, not someone else's crap that you need to return for them. My philosophy when climbing is that the gear must be bomber but removable. It's my own fault if I can't properly place the gear to be removed by my second. Bail gear is just that- you're bailing, too bad. Find a way to get it back, rap down, ask a better climber to go get it for you (been there) or just thank the gear gods you are on the ground safely and replace what you left behind.
BTW, if you lost a .75 camalot or a reverso(ground score) on el cap in september, thanks!


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By Andy Novak
Nov 21, 2008
Pitch 4, South Ridge, Notchtop, ROMO

jimo wrote:
BTW, if you lost a .75 camalot or a reverso(ground score) on el cap in september, thanks!


Just curious, but does this mean you found them on the ground at the base of the route? If so, how do you know it wasn't dropped from the headwall 800 meters up? I dropped a biner from only 50 feet last sunday and retired it.


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By Eric D
Nov 21, 2008
Before the tyrolean on Sun Ribbon Arete, high Sierras.

Booty comes and goes in a cycle. You leave some, you get some and it all probably evens out in the end. I've probably left the same amount of stuff for other people to have as I have collected. I once found a .75 left lying on a ledge. Not in a crack or anything, just sitting there. BOOTY!


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By tom selleck
Nov 21, 2008

I employ the "don't ask don't tell" philosophy.


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By AJS
From Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2008
In the sea of Cortez - Baja California, Mexico

Danno wrote:
I employ the "don't ask don't tell" philosophy.


I'm the opposite. I brag to all my friends that I bootied a sweet, full rack but in reality all I got was a stuck nut.

...but as far as climbing gear goes that's another story

:-)

/somebody had to go there


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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
Nov 22, 2008
The Shield

AJS... I hit that one on page one. No body said nothin' to my chagrin


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By AJS
From Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2008
In the sea of Cortez - Baja California, Mexico

Ahhh, so you did - nice one!...must be a highbrow crowd here - they probably don't appreciate the finer points of tawdry humor :-)

-Adam


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By Ben C
From Rochester, NY
Oct 18, 2009
working "Things as they are now" at Rumney. I've ticked since this photo was taken

is it still booty if you left it and then come back to retrieve it?


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By brooks8970
From Berkeley, CA
Oct 19, 2009
dinner ledge

If you attempt to give it back, its not booty


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By JPVallone
Oct 19, 2009

What goes around comes around, The longer you climb the more you will leave behind and the more you will find. It seems to all even out in the end.

I think its trash and you are picking it up and keeping the climb in it's proper state by removing it and giving it a good new home. I would never expect anything back if I leave it in the mountains, If I leave gear, well that was the price of admission that day, At least I got home, could of been worse.

There is an art to leaving a solid but inexpensive anchor if its a bail situation, but if its just a stuck piece then it costs the price of the piece. Ce La Vie

New Question though:

If you and your buddy are climbing together and your on lead and find a nice cam that was on the route you cant clean it or you clip it instead and your second cleans the nice shiny cam, Who gets it, the guy who cleaned it or the guy who led the pitch?

Or in the OP's case who has to find and return the piece to the owner, the leader or the second who cleaned it?


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By Rafe
Oct 19, 2009
hardman

Yarr! Plunder the booty ye swashbuckler!


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By lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Oct 21, 2009
loving the rock, on cannon cliff...

JPVallone wrote:
If you and your buddy are climbing together and your on lead and find a nice cam that was on the route you cant clean it or you clip it instead and your second cleans the nice shiny cam, Who gets it, the guy who cleaned it or the guy who led the pitch?


IMO It is best form to collect booty free on the lead, haha... if i want the booty but want to clip it, i remove it and yell to my belayer that it is mine then put it back and clip it...


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By Buff Johnson
From Coniferous, CO
Oct 21, 2009
What happens when you:<br />1) have nothing to do<br />2) own a sharp knife<br />3) have a large lime<br />4) own a patient cat<br />5) drink too much tequila<br />6) and it's football season?<br /><br />(An e-mail I received; just know that no cat was harmed in the carving of this lime. Dogs Rule!!)

Rafe wrote:
Yarr! Plunder the booty ye swashbuckler!


I keep yelling this every time I ramble into a Bronco cheerleader party; but it just never works, wtf?

maybe they are just not climbers, they always seem to freak out when I show them my cordalette

I try to explain about proper etiquette and anchor rigging when finding booty, I try, I really do


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By JPVallone
Oct 21, 2009

lee hansche wrote:
IMO It is best form to collect booty free on the lead, haha... if i want the booty but want to clip it, i remove it and yell to my belayer that it is mine then put it back and clip it...



Nice!!!


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 21, 2009
Looking down from Notchtop

The trigger wire of the Trango cam I found at Turret Dome in Elevenmile years ago broke completely as I was trying to place it while climbing "The Martyr" earlier in the week.

So, do I have to pay for the trigger replacement myself or can I get that from the previous owner? I never did find the owner.


I actually think it's nice that people worry about booty being stealing, or unsportsmanlike, or uncool, etc. I'm fine laying out what rules I go by and let them decide for themselves. This common thread is certainly more welcome than...


I was going to say pro/anti dog threads, but I get a huge laugh out of those. Ha ha ha. OK, I hate shoe threads the most I think. Absolutely no controversy or potential for entertainment.


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By ShibbyShane
From Sacramento,CA
Oct 21, 2009
Me climbing the first pitch of Pony Express (5.8) at Sugarloaf.

lee hansche wrote:
IMO It is best form to collect booty free on the lead, haha... if i want the booty but want to clip it, i remove it and yell to my belayer that it is mine then put it back and clip it...


Wish I would have known this earlier. I was climbing with a friend who already had a full rack, but I was leading. Came across a fixed but nice shiny #1 C4, and yelled down that I was clipping it. So he follows me up and gets it out (breaking all the trigger wires in the process) and keeps it. I was bummed b/c I didn't have any of my own gear, but I guess he did all the work... Oh well.


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By Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 21, 2009

I'm with Lee on the cleaning booty on the lead thing. Sometimes I get conflicted over whether to risk blowing the onsight by fiddling with stuck booty if I'm on a route I care about. Often these days, I'll leave the booty for my 2nd unless it is easy to pluck.


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By Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 21, 2009

But back to the original question. I've returned booty, attempted unsuccessfully to find the owner, offered to clean for the party ahead of me on the route, greedily grabbed without considering the (past) owner, and once even face to face refused to give it back because of the attitude and inconsiderate actions of the cam loser.
Context matters.
Once I even rescued a fallen noob leader, (who had managed to live through no fault of his own,) retrieved most of his brand new rack, then regretted handing it to him because his clueless, false-front macho bravado in front of his 13yo son belayer pissed me off so bad. I nearly decked him for being an ass.


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By lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Oct 28, 2009
loving the rock, on cannon cliff...

I love booty... Every time i find a piece i fall in love...

I work hard not to leave gear behind because once i do i consider it gone for ever.. i assume that what i find on a climb was left the same way, they said their good byes, the gear is dead to them...


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By Malcolm Daly
From Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2009

I'm surprised this is a question. Do with booty you found just as you wish people who found your booty would do with yours.

Do you best to find the owner. If you can't find them, enjoy the good karma that came with your found booty and climb safe.

Mal


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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
Oct 29, 2009
sunset self caricature (2)

Malcolm Daly wrote:
Do with booty you found just as you wish people who found your booty would do with yours. Mal

unfortunately i dont think the Golden Rule applies anymore these days...


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 29, 2009
From "Couch Freaks '09."

Just like "there's no crying in baseball," there's similarly no etiquette in rocklimbing!

--Marc


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