Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
C4's or Master Cams?

  [ Forums > Trad Climbing ]
View Latest Posts in this Forum     Page 1 of 1.  

 
By Tyson Anderson
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 16, 2009
yawn

I'm looking for opinions on what's better, the smaller range c4 cams(.75, .5, .4, .3) or the equivalent sizes in Master Cams. I've got a bunch of the larger c4s and I love them. I've also used a friend's .5 c4 and have been pretty happy with it. Never used the Master Cams but I've heard good things about them. What do you think?


FLAG
By foodgeek
Oct 16, 2009

It's really just personal preference, the master cams and C4s both work great. I like the C4s down to .4, the #2 C3 has roughly the same range as the .3 C4 with a much narrower head.


FLAG
By ben kenobi
From Portland, OR
Oct 16, 2009
when you don't have rock, just use fence posts.  this anchor held a several thousand pound load.

I don't think I'd leave home without my .5 and .75 camalots. In those sizes, they're tops in my opninion. That said, I also love my black master cam(#5, between .75 and 1 camalot). The thing will fit in those weird pockets in which camalots rarely fit. So....just get both :)


FLAG
By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
Half Dome

2nd the C4 down to the .4
The .75, .5, and .4 are awesome cams.


FLAG
By Evan1984
Oct 16, 2009

Use and love both. I personally feel that in the smaller sized cams, it is important to have a selection of brands. Sometimes, a c4 doesn't place quite right and the same sized master or TCU is bomber. Other times, the opposite is true.

I will say that, as a whole, c4's are my go to cam and above a size 1 or so, there is no other cam in my opinion.

Just my 2 cents,
Evan


FLAG
By Gaar
From Springdale / Zion UT
Oct 16, 2009
Disappear RRG

I've been climbing with both for a while, well since before they were available to the market...The only quam I have with either is that the Larger Master Cam (Black, and Green) get sloppy after a one or two falls..What I mean is when I go to pull the trigger the cam folds in half, kinda like a good ole worn out alien..The C4's retain stiffness.
But to counter act this I think the smaller master cams are great.

2pennies


FLAG
By lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Oct 16, 2009
loving the rock, on cannon cliff...

Camalots... i like the range and the feel in my hand but the master cams are cool too... in the small sizes my favorite is TCUs... really its up to your preference... what ever you use you will get used to... and you will love them...


FLAG
By Ben H
Oct 16, 2009
Santa Barbara

I like my TCUs, but have no aversion to BD whatsoever. I frequently use BD also. I also really really like the wild country long stem zeros, they feel better than TCUs and c4s IMO.


FLAG
By Erik W
From Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
North face of Ama Dablam - taken on approach to Kongma La.

+1 for the camalots.

C4's down to .5 is a no brainer at this point. And I agree that the #2 (yellow) C3 covers that smallest C4 size (.3). So the only cam worth some debate is the .4 C4.... at that point, might as well play the same suit throughout.

[BD, if you're reading this, give a go at making the C3's in two larger sizes... just to overlap with the smaller range of the .5, thanks.]


FLAG
By Evan Simons
From Boulder CO
Oct 16, 2009

The #2 C3 and .3 C4 are the same size, but four lobes spread out over more surface is safer, especially in soft rock. I carry both and if the .3 fits, I go for that first. The Master Cams feel nice, but I can't get over the kevlar cables, even though they have been using them on their big cams for a while now. No one seems to say much about Wild Country cams, I think they're well made, smooth, and very reliable, I personally like to carry those and BD's in larger and medium sizes (with a couple link cams too), and Aliens and C3's for the small stuff. In the future I may pick up some of the smaller WC's and some Zero's.


FLAG
By coreylee
From Berkeley, CA
Oct 16, 2009

aliens


FLAG
By Phoenix
From louisville, colorado
Oct 18, 2009
Regular Route, A.K.A. Mark of Zorro<br />Boulder Canyon

C4's down through .5 Mastercams from yellow down, works great for me!


FLAG
By Tyson Anderson
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 18, 2009
yawn

Thanks everybody! Great info.


FLAG
By Eli Kramer
From Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 18, 2009

I also love the C4's down to .4, and the #2 C3 (yellow). The yellow C3 might be one of the most used pieces on my rack. I don't think I'd ever leave the ground without the .5 and .75 C4's but I do have some TCU's also. I don't really like the action on the Mastercam as much.


FLAG
By dinglestyle
From Catonsville, MD
Oct 18, 2009
Pat at Rocks State Park

1 TCU all the way, Then stick with BD. I love my C3s and C4s, but the orange TCU is the best cam in that range hands down. If BD was smarter they would add 1 or 2 more sizes larger sizes to the C3 line up.

Four lobes don’t always have more surface areas, The C3 has a very large middle lobe, which gives it more usable surface area then comparable 4 lobe cams. In-fact your surface area is greater unless you are undercammed. Plus 3 lobes walk less.


FLAG
By dinglestyle
From Catonsville, MD
Oct 19, 2009
Pat at Rocks State Park

If you measure the with of the lobes, which is not total surface area, but is a easy way of measurement. You will see that 3 wider lobes can have great surface then 4, which is the case below.

#2 C3 ranges from .5616 of a inch to 1.1856 of surface area
#.3 C4 ranges from .5 of a inch to .8736 of surface area


FLAG
By Marc-Andre
From Agassiz, B.C
Nov 12, 2009
Me on a 5.12d roof.. it's harder than a 15 year old boy at a hookers convention. I fell off in the end.

Im not a fan of BD C3's because of the terrible spring-in-stem design that doesnt allow the stem to fit nicely in the crack, they can also be hard to retract when pumped. I would get C4's for larger sizes, like ringlocks and up and mastercams and TCU's for fingery stuff. just my two cents....


FLAG
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 12, 2009
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

I think one set of C3s and one set of MasterCams (up to Orange) is a perfect combo for a small cam setup... as they each fit different spots. Then I have C4s for everything bigger.


FLAG

  [ Forums > Trad Climbing ]
Page 1 of 1.