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By Sam Benedict
Sep 25, 2009
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I don’t think anyone has suggested the 5.10 Gambit yet. I bought some because they were cheap. When I first climbed in them I hated them, but they didn’t take long to break in. The synthetic material they use is actually very stretchy (though it stinks real bad after a while). I sized them small, but after a couple long routes they were super comfy. I have never had such a well rounded shoe; they are comfortable enough for flatirons, stellar for cracks (especially thin), and actually edge very well.


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By Lynn S
Sep 25, 2009

5.10 Anasazi velcro, great all-around shoe in my opinion, comfortable and still perform well. If you want more comfort vs. performance the v-mile is a good shoe also.


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By Mitch Musci
Sep 25, 2009

Lynn, I agree the anasazi velcro is a great shoe. It is probably my all-time favorite shoe when the climbing gets difficult. But the synthetic uppers get totally chewed up when jamming cracks. If you use this as your crack shoe, you will soon have holes on the tops of your toes!


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By Bill Flaherty
From Evergreen, CO
Sep 26, 2009
The important stuff!

The relatively new 5.10 Anasazi Verdi, sized comfortably, is my shoe for long routes. It performs really well on technical terrain, the rubber is like glue, and the sole is stiff enough that you're not in pain at the end of the day (unless it's a really long crack route). It's not so cushy that you can descend in it, but if you want to hang on to some performance, it seems to me you need to give up the full-blown cush.

As another contributor pointed out, the Mad Rock Frenzy Lace is a really cushy shoe, and works for me in long cracks. It's almost ridiculously padded out, and yet still climbs reasonably well on more moderate terrain.


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