I'm comfy in my Mythos all day :)

-Glenn

I've had some amazing days in my TC Pro's... this week I did roadwarrior on mount evans and the pros were the shit! now there was a serious beat down that the route put on me but my feet were actually great...this shoe is a great all day shoe. can't wait to go to the desert and try them out this fall. Sportiva did a fabulous job on these.no gobies on the ankles.

I'm very disappointed in my Tradmasters. I sized them for comfort and can say they perform worse than the Enduros I have worn in the past in a similar size. The rubber is not very sticky and the midsole does not offer enough support. I have also worn a small hole in the side of the shoe above the rubber in less than a dozen days on the rock. They are warm though, which is nice for alpine excursions, and the heel is great for wide cracks.

Why do shoe companies always think they have to re-invent the wheel? If something works, and it sells maybe change the color but don't kill the shoe.

I don't think I would buy a pair of TC pros sized for comfort, as they are way too expensive for that(for me at least). I would like to try a pair sized for performance.

I have three pairs of Kaulkulators. There has never been a better all around shoe. Why La Sportiva stopped making them has always puzzled me.

I've got Bandits, and unlike the user who suggested them, I feel they are horrible for jamming, and thus not a great crack shoe. To me they are a soft sport shoe design through and through.

I just picked up a pair of TC pro's, and admittedly now have buyers remorse. Unless these things really change during their break in, I'm not feeling all that comfy in them. They felt fine when trying them on at the shop and walking around in them, but after a couple pitches in them I found the high top to be limiting motion significantly and very uncomfortable above the ankle at the edge seams and at the top of my achilles. I also have a fairly high arch and am feeling a bit of slop there as well. I'll keep my fingers crossed for big change to come as they break in.

Hey Punter,
what size are they...I think that they are the shit. I would buy another pair, I think they are that good.

what size is your street shoe? I'm usually a 43.5 and I bought a 42 in the tc's. I spent about 8 hours in them when I climbed road warrior and that really helped seal the deal. I did some cragging in them yesterday and that helped as well. talking with one of the associates at bentgate we came to the conclusion that 10 ten days of climbing should be where you truly find out if it is a go.

Shoes I've found to be good for all day (in order from softest to stiffest) - MocASyms (fully stretched out), Katanas (stretched), Mythos (sized comfortably), Kermits, Aces.

Favorites among these? Aces, hands down.

Okay, I think it's time for an update on my experience with the TC's....

After extensive lace work I was able to get a better fit going on. I took the over priced clod hoppers down to the gym for round 2. Started off hopping on some steep boulder problems. Certainly not what the shoes were designed for, but they handled incredibly well sticking smears and dime edges on a 45 degree wall. Aside from the lack of sensitivty, they almost seemed (oddly) geared toward this use. Through the rest of the night I ran laps on slabs, vert, overhangs and roofs, all with ease. Yeah yeah, who gives a flying rats ass about the gym? At the very least I was able to sweat in them a bit and get the break in process started.

Round 3: Two days at Seneca. Okay, now the real test. I wasn't pushing any major numbers, but cruising some classics instead. The shoes were notably friendly on cracks and edges, even smear fairly decent for a shoe that shouldn't. I again have sized the shoe tight for performance, but found them to be fairly comfortable now. I took them off at a couple of belays, but otherwise they stayed on most of the day.

They are definitely growing on me.

I've been using My 5.10 Moccasyms for all day trad for a long time, but they finally busted through the rand (I knew I should have sent them in for resoling earlier...but I kept putting it off).

Lately it's been my trusty 5.10 Spires.

-1 for the Tradmasters.

+1 for Mythos

I was given some murias recently that seemed to be a bit big and loose fitting. Resoled em and laced them down tight and they actually work really well for all day comfort and techy performance. As an added bonus I can wear em with socks on those cold days and they do about as well as anything could with socks.

I had a pair of Boreal Ace's and yeah in 1997 they were great for trad climbing. I use them now only for offwidth as they are nice and stiff. I can't imagine anyone using shoes like that for hard trad now, however people have sent wayyyyy harder in Ace's then I ever will in any shoe.

The Evolv Bandits rock. Maybe you are sizing them too tight or are expecting a stiff shoe. I like a semi-soft shoe with a relatively open toe box. The 5.10 Mocasyms are the best for pure cracks...no laces, great feel, and if you size them correctly amazing at the Creek. However, the Bandits have a slightly similar feel, but also can edge and work better in mixed face/crack climbing. They are awesome in places like Eldo where you are constantly back and forth between face and crack. I bet Mocasyms also would be good in this regard, but I sized mine loose for the Creek.

Also you have to get a shoe that fits the shape of your foot.

Mythos++

But these are the opposite of what the OP has in mind for his next shoe: they are low cut with a really soft sole.

I wear mythos... They are funny, no matter how small you size them, they won't curl your toes. Awesome for foot jamming in cracks, no so great for other stuff, i had to put some shoe goo on the lace covers down toward the toe, that spot gets warn out quick if you climb cracks. I'll probably get some Acopas next, probably try to get 4 resoles or so out of my mythos, I've tried them on, and they seem like a fantastic shoe.

Acopa for LIFE!

JB's and Aztecs are both great all day trad type shoes.

The Tradmaster's are garbage! The rubber is not vibram, just some shwilly rubber from China.

The Mythos are also garbage! Someone earlier said it best: built for 5-easy slabs.

Scarpa Techno's are a huge step up from the Mythos, but don't fit a wide foot at all.

I recommend the Evolv Quest or the Five Ten Piton.

I agree with Mitch, Tradmasters are not very comfortable and don't climb very well.

I love my Five-Ten Pitons for multi-pitch and cracks, I bought them larger then my sport/bouldering shoes and like to wear socks with them. I found that wearing socks, although it may not be conventional these days, adds a large amount of comfort to any shoe for all day wear.

I just got Pitons, and love them as well. The bad news is that 5.10 is discontinuing them. They are supposedly incorporating some of the features into their high-top, the Grandstone. But from the pictures I've seen, they lost the single best quality of the Piton, that strange toe box.

The toe box on the Piton pinches down to a very thin profile at the tip of your toes (as the name implies). I can't wait to get to the creek and try these things on some thin hands and thumb stacks--I might actually get some portion of the shoe in a stack-sized crack. The cool part is that the rubber-covered toe box is extra roomy back near the base of your toes. I found that if sized so that your toes are just slightly bent, the shoe still performs quite well on face. But this extra space above the toes allows room for your toes to flatten out when you put your foot in the crack. It's hard to explain in words, go try a pair on.

It's possible that as the shoe breaks in, this won't continue to happen, and the shoe will just be sloppy; but for now they are awesome if you mostly climb cracks, but not desert cracks (i.e. still need face holds occasionally).

Some Chuck taylors