Out of curiosity, what shoes do "ya'll" use for multi-pitch / all day climbs and why those? As of right now, I have been using my sport climbing shoes which I size agonizing tight and I have to take off constantly. After several hours of being in them a lot, it's not fun.

I have been eyeballing a pair of these:

http://www.acopausa.com/product.jsp?navigation=3&content=12

The ankle protection is nice to me. I have been tearing up the skin on my ankle bones in cracks, of course, I suck at cracks right now and not very efficient... I also like how the sole rubber is really stiff.

Don't know about the JBs, but I've been loving my Acopa Aztecs as an all day trad shoe.

They seemed to be sized small... I got a size 9 even though my typical climbing shoe is sized 8. And they will stretch.

The La Sportiva Mythos is an excellent all around shoe is is very comfortable. The one drawback I am aware of is that the laces tend to get beaten up in cracks.

The high top has officially gone retro. This year several companies came out with new high end high top trad shoes, TC Pro from La Sportiva and the Ledgend from Acopa come to mind.

Most people I know use low tops but maybe that is because there were not good high top modles availible, time will tell.

Popular choices are Miuras 1/2 to 1 size larger than you would wear for sport climbing, Mythos with toes somewhat flat, Moccasyms fit pretty loose, Frenzy Laceups for something stiffer. Also just getting a pair of so called "beginner" shoes since they are typically stiffer, made to fit with your toes flat and comfort is a priority over performance, not that they can't perform well if sized appropriatly.

Well, I just splashed out yesterday and brought a pair of tc pros by sportiva. It was love at first sight!

I'll do a review on them once I've got some mileage. I need to take them back to Bentgate and have them replaced, as the stitching is coming undone in one place. Just my luck.

• sigh* I even looked, but missed it, there is all ready a healthy discussion about this in this forum. Work rots the brain. I really need to go climbing.

John, I have had the Sportiva Trad Master's, really good all around shoes that are comfortable, they don't have a lot of ankle protection though, which sounds like what you are looking for, but might be worth taking a look at.

Evolv Bandits. Love em for all day trad. Great for cracks, good edging and slab shoe also. Not a high top though....I just throw some tape around the ankles or wear long pants if need be.

I sized mine so that they are tight enough for edging, but unless I lace them super tight I never really bother to take them off. I have a wide foot and they work well for me.

I also believe they are now called the Red Bandit.

I used to use Mythos for my all day trad stuff. Very comfortable and soft shoe, but like the others have said, you need a strong big toe to edge well in them. I switched to the JB's about 6 months ago and love them! They edge confidently on things you can barely see, the rubber is crazy sticky when smearing, and they jam comfortably in cracks. Also, the ankle protection is really nice. After several days of climbing offwidths at Vedauwoo last month, it was nice to still have all of the skin on my ankle bones, even if the rest of my body was all torn up :)

The only thing I'd mention is that you should be sure to try them on since the sizing is really wierd. My typical climbing shoe size for a snug but not painful fit is 10.5, and my street shoe size is 11. I ended up needing split sizes of 11.5 and 12 in these, and that is still pretty snug. They take awhile to really break in too, so reserve judgement until you've got 15 or 20 pitches in them. I hated them the first day I climbed in them, was luke warm about them the second, and fell in love with them starting the third.

It's a shame that John B is no longer with us. You used to be able to email him directly for advice on what shoe to get and help on sizing. Getting shoe advice from him was a bit like getting advice from Babe Ruth on what bat to buy.

scarpa techno. Way more technical than mythos. I found the mythos to be a horrible shoe for any type of hard or technical climbing.

Scarpa Techno's by far-
I have had them all, mythos (just like the technos except technos are better and easier to relace when you break the laces)
Tradmasters, Aces, etc. but technos are the best I have used.

That being said, whatever is the most comfy is the ones I go with.

uh huh

After years in mythos, i switched to acopa legends this year. for footwork, it's like the difference between and approach shoe and a climbing shoe. and it is probably even MORE comfortable that mythos. i loved them so much i bought a 2nd pair. buy your street shoe size in these.

Maybe I'm just a new-age sport-weenie, but I wear my LaSportiva Miuras and just take 'em off at the belays. Putting them back on again starts to get a bit painful after the 10th pitch, but I'll sacrifice that for performance.

Techno's! If they fit your feet, they are the best all around shoe on the market. Way more durable than any La Sportiva shoe.

Another thing, if you're still thinking about the Acopas, check out the "ask John Bachar" section of their website. There is a bunch of good info on sizing and the differences between the different models there.

I'm sure you'll love the JB's if you get them.

Although not high tops, I have been stoked with my 5.10 v-miles. These are very comfortable shoes for all day climbing and they have some heel padding for long descents. If you are going to do some thrasher cracks there's always a little tape to protect the ankles...

scarpa marathon is a good shoe...they've redesigned it a couple of times and it gets better and better. Backcountry.com outlet has a couple of pair of smaller ones for absolutely crazy deals right now. $29.00 or something like that. I paid over hundred for mine.

The shoe preforms well...cushioned heel, padded tongue, edges and smears well, climbs crack like a trad shoe should but does just about as good of job on the faces as do my sport shoes.

i use 5.10 Mocs for everything from hard sport to long multi pitch...i just size them differently

Five-Ten Spire.

Semi related, but why start my own thread.
While I haven't used the 5.10 Moccasym myself, is pretty specialized from what I've seen here. For example, it does great in parallels like Indian Creek. I've even seen a few people add rubber to the uppers for traction on both sides of a toe-down crack - http://www.mountainproject.com/v/c_miller/106499111
Today I came across Montrail Methods, which come from the factory with rubber on the upper. I know this brand isn't as popular as others... So, has anyone tried these?
http://www.sierratradingpost.com/product.aspx?baseno=19489