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Trad Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ass Over Teacup S 
Baby Jr. S 
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 
Big Nosed Kate S 
Chosen One, The S 
Cochise Toecheese S 
Hell in a Handbasket S 
Isle of You S 
Jizzneyland S 
Now It's My Turn S 
OK Corral S 
Rabbits Feat S 
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 
Stone Woman S 

Trad Rock  


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Sep 3, 2002
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Description 

Trad Rock is the lower and foremost of the two most prominent rocks visible from the parking area. It hosts a good number of quality routes in a variety of grades from 5.6-5.11. In spite of its name, most of the routes on this crag are clip-ups. All in all, it's a great sport crag in an unbeatable setting.

Rock quality is generally good. Watch out for nesting wasps and bees up on the rock.

Getting There 

From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road another two miles north. Make a final right turn on a dirt road that leads to a circular parking area. The crags are visible from the road.

A good trail leads across the drainage below the parking area, and uphill to the crags.


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.1 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trad Rock:
OK Corral   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Rabbits Feat   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Isle of You   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   
Stone Woman   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Now It's My Turn   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Rise and Shine, Cupcake   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Hell in a Handbasket   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Jizzneyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Chosen One   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Ass Over Teacup   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Trad Rock

Featured Route For Trad Rock
Off we go!!

Hell in a Handbasket 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : Trad Rock
Very fun route with a little of everything. I'm surprised this route doesn't get as much traffic as some of the other routes on this wall. Maybe because of the over-rating in the guide books(?). Scramble up to first bolt then continue up through balancy crux to second bolt. Follow sustained mild 10 climbing to no hands rest then up through bulge 10c finish. Route goes over three fairly distinct bulge sections, the hardest of which being the last. After the last bulge, a scramble takes you ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Trad Rock
Photos of Trad Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Panorama of the Trad Rock area just before sunset ...
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of the Trad Rock area just before sunset ...
Isle of You from near the campground at sunset. Tr...
BETA PHOTO: Isle of You from near the campground at sunset. Tr...
Amazing ocotillo at Trad Rock.
Amazing ocotillo at Trad Rock.
Isle Of Ewe Topo. Hopefully it will print well eno...
BETA PHOTO: Isle Of Ewe Topo. Hopefully it will print well eno...

Comments on Trad Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spiro
Feb 26, 2008
I climbed in three areas of AZ and this was by far my favorite. The others were great as well but there is something magical about the Stronghold! GO!
By JLPierce
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 21, 2009
Yes, watch the wasps. I got stung on the bottom of my foot- crawled between my sandal and foot, ouch! Good thing you can't use your feet to climb here, just the edges. Haha! "Slabby, smeary fun"
By Aaron Divine
Feb 11, 2011
Loose bolts/anchor Question:

I was last at Trad Rock in spring of 2005 - and am planning to return soon. At the time, I seem to recall at least a few bolts and some of the anchor bolts (not just the hangers - but the bolts themselves) being suspiciously loose on climbs along the left side of the crag (can't remember exactly which routes). Does anyone who climbs here more regularly know if any these have been replaced / repaired since then?

Many thanks
By Zach Harrison
Dec 31, 2013
I echo the above comment, this crag gets a lot of traffic. I just climbed all the routes on trad rock and found a number of loose bolts on routes all over the crag, even the newest routes. If you are inclined to do a community service, take a wrench with you and tighten things up.