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Trad Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ass Over Teacup 
Baby Jr. 
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked 
Big Nosed Kate 
Chosen One, The 
Cochise Toecheese 
Hell in a Handbasket 
Isle of You 
Jizzneyland 
Now It's My Turn 
OK Corral 
Rabbits Feat 
Rise and Shine, Cupcake 
Stone Woman 

Trad Rock 


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Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James DeRoussel on Sep 3, 2002
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Amazing ocotillo at Trad Rock.

Description 

Trad Rock is the lower and foremost of the two most prominent rocks visible from the parking area. It hosts a good number of quality routes in a variety of grades from 5.6-5.11. In spite of its name, most of the routes on this crag are clip-ups. All in all, it's a great sport crag in an unbeatable setting.

Rock quality is generally good. Watch out for nesting wasps and bees up on the rock.


Getting There 

From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road another two miles north. Make a final right turn on a dirt road that leads to a circular parking area. The crags are visible from the road.

A good trail leads across the drainage below the parking area, and uphill to the crags.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trad Rock:
OK Corral   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Isle of You   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 170'   
Stone Woman   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Now It's My Turn   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Rise and Shine, Cupcake   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Jizzneyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Hell in a Handbasket   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Chosen One   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Ass Over Teacup   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Trad Rock

Featured Route For Trad Rock
A shot of me on Isle of You.   Great climb.

Isle of You 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  AZ : Cochise Stronghold : ... : Trad Rock
One of the tougher 5.9 routes you're likely to find. The initial moves seemed more in the 5.10b range. The route starts from the large deck that lies roughly in the middle of the base of Trad Rock. Isle of You is the middle of three lines that start from this deck between the left-hand arete (home of Jizzneyland, 5.10c) and the largish oak on the right-hand. Initial moves are a thin left to right traverse to the first bolt. The second bolt lies in a dishy depression, reached by traversi...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For Trad Rock
Photos of Trad Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Isle of You from near the campground at sunset. Trad Rock is in front.
BETA PHOTO: Isle of You from near the campground at sunset. Tr...
Panorama of the Trad Rock area just before sunset as seen from the campground.  8/15/08
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of the Trad Rock area just before sunset ...
Isle of View at Cochise Stronghold
Isle of View at Cochise Stronghold
Comments on Trad Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spiro
Feb 26, 2008

I climbed in three areas of AZ and this was by far my favorite. The others were great as well but there is something magical about the Stronghold! GO!

By JLPierce
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 21, 2009

Yes, watch the wasps. I got stung on the bottom of my foot- crawled between my sandal and foot, ouch! Good thing you can't use your feet to climb here, just the edges. Haha! "Slabby, smeary fun"

By Aaron Divine
Feb 11, 2011

Loose bolts/anchor Question:

I was last at Trad Rock in spring of 2005 - and am planning to return soon. At the time, I seem to recall at least a few bolts and some of the anchor bolts (not just the hangers - but the bolts themselves) being suspiciously loose on climbs along the left side of the crag (can't remember exactly which routes). Does anyone who climbs here more regularly know if any these have been replaced / repaired since then?

Many thanks

By Zach Harrison
Dec 31, 2013

I echo the above comment, this crag gets a lot of traffic. I just climbed all the routes on trad rock and found a number of loose bolts on routes all over the crag, even the newest routes. If you are inclined to do a community service, take a wrench with you and tighten things up.