Trad Gear
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So, I am starting to get a couple decent ticks, and my skills are coming to the point that I am willing to spend some money on trad gear. However, I'm just a poor college kid. I was wondering if I could start building a rack bit by bit, or should I wait until I can get all of it at once? Are cams necessary, or just expensive and convenient? |
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Get yourself a set of nuts, a set of hexes and maybe some of the smaller tri-cams and teach yourself how to place passive pro. Most of the beginner trad climbs will have plenty of places to place passive pro. Then you can slowly add cams to your rack as you go. |
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Although hexes will have some utility, the meat of your rack will consist of nuts and cams. I would buy things that will be useful as you progress, and the hexes will most likely sit after you get a rack of cams. That's just the way a modern rack is going and it is for good reason. |
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Evan has wisdom in his words. |
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I would agree with Evan, get a set of nuts and then build up a rack of cams slowly. If you can scrape together enough money most places will give you a discount if you buy like 5 or more cams, not a great discount but it helps. I would try to get BD C4s in .5-3 if you are going to try to get a deal |
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Almost my entire rack is made of used gear, now that is how you get the discounts! |
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Buy nuts, trad draws/slings and cams even if you have to buy them one at a time. .5 thru 2 are my most used sizes for sure. Hexs rarely get used by me, I'd buy them later if you know you really want them for some reason (icy cracks, ligher, winter/alpine bail pieces). |
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When i just started to get into climbing trad. I made it a point to take $50 from each check and put it towards climbing gear. Within two years i had a decent rack, plus its easier to spend small amouts of money hear an there than one big lump sum. |
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Buy used gear on eBay. Follow auctions for a while online to get the idea what is offered, final sales prices, etc. Follow specific items that you would want to buy retail and found out how much equivalent items go for online, then bid to those limits. Buy only exactly what you need now for sure, not what you think you might need "someday." Build your rack slowly and patiently. |
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I'm going to go ahead and disagree with most people that are saying accumulate a rack slowly. What is the point of having 2-3 pieces? You cannot lead with half a rack, so you will be using someone else's gear anyway. If someone with a rack is letting you use some of their stuff, you likely have access to their full rack. The only reason I can see for having a small rack is if you are learning to place gear and want some practice, and perhaps to build top rope anchors. Once you decide you are going to lead, I really think it is an "all or nothing" deal, and you can buy gear much cheaper with discounts (usually a set of 5 cams is 10-20% cheaper than buying full price, throw in another 20% coupon or sale, and you are getting a good deal.) |
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Another place call to see if he can give you a deal on packaging something together is mtntools.com... 800-510-2514 |
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Thanks for all the advice. Do any of you trad masters have suggestions to finding these so called mentors? I live in northern Wisconsin, so they aren't exactly hitchhiking on the highways near the crags... |
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Josh Olson wrote:Thanks for all the advice. Do any of you trad masters have suggestions to finding these so called mentors? I live in northern Wisconsin, so they aren't exactly hitchhiking on the highways near the crags...Post in the Midwest forum that you're looking to follow somebody's leads at The Lake or Interstate SP. Most likely they will let you follow their leads- I would. |
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Josh Olson wrote:Thanks for all the advice. Do any of you trad masters have suggestions to finding these so called mentors? I live in northern Wisconsin, so they aren't exactly hitchhiking on the highways near the crags...Not a trad master, but for me to take out a new climber they must meet certain requirements: 1. Rock solid belay skills (learn to lead belay at a gym or sport crag) 2. Rock solid belay skills (learn to lead belay at a gym or sport crag) 3. Be stoked to climb and available when I'm available. 4. and to a lesser extent contribute in some way be it driving, camp logistics, etc |
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Josh, I was just going through gear, and have an assortment of stuff that would be a great starter for you. The gear is used but well maintained (new slings, trigger wires, cleaned, and lubed as needed) There are 7 cams, a set of assorted nuts, and a few biners for $175. I am going to post it as For Sale, but I thought it might be helpful to respond to you. |
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a good nut tool and that piranha knife from Trango. |
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www.spadout.com is a great way to get deals. |
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Scott O wrote:www.spadout.com is a great way to get deals. Acme climbing has some decent package deals. acmeclimbing.com/index.asp?… I own a few of the trango flex cams. They're not the nicest, but they work and are a cheap option for cams.'cept those trango cams probably aren't the best for a begginer. They're not that easy to place. |
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Price wrote: 'cept those trango cams probably aren't the best for a begginer. They're not that easy to place.They're not particularly difficult, either. |
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I started my rack as a top-rope rack which consisted of a full set of nuts (don't bother buying those individually) and a few hexes. |