Trad climbs for May/June

Hi, I am looking for the best long (lets say 8 pitches and more) tradclimbs in the US for May/June. I want to try something new- I have been to Yosemite, Colorado, Moab and Indian Creek and I preffer crackclimbing. Could you please help me with my choice?

Tahquitz. Cochise is still good in early May, to hot in June.

Mike Citellus wrote:Hi, I am looking for the best long (lets say 8 pitches and more) tradclimbs in the US for May/June. I want to try something new- I have been to Yosemite, Colorado, Moab and Indian Creek and I preffer crackclimbing. Could you please help me with my choice?

Specify grade range. The must-do list for the 5.12 climber is likely very different from the list for the 5.9 climber. Not that the 5.12 climber won't enjoy the classic 5.9 cracks, but they will have access to quite a number of additional options...

Lets say 5.8-5.11a.

May-June is kind of a transition period. The desert areas are starting to get hot (although they will still be good in the shade in early May), while the alpine areas are likely still snowy. You want to aim for the middle--the mid elevation "montane" zones (Yosemite, mid-elevation stuff in Colorado, etc). Also, things change quite a bit from early May to late June. In early May the shady stuff in Red Rocks is still really good, while in late June you could go somewhere like Squamish. So where you go will largely need to hinge on when you go (or vice versa).

Yosemite is an obvious choice, but you've been there. Worth a return trip, of course.

Tahquitz has great weather throughout May-June, and has some nice routes. 5.8-5.11 is really the money grade range there also. Definitely shorter that your stated interest (there really isn't anything more than ~6 pitches). I also think that the climbing there is inferior to what is found further north (in Yosemite, the Needles, etc.). Still, you could spend a great week there ticking the classic 3-5 pitch routes.

The Needles (California) is an astonishingly good area. Most of the climbing there will also be less than 8 pitches (4 pitches seems more typical, with a few notable exceptions), but the perfect rock quality and amazing cracks totally makes up for it. The road is closed in this area from winter into spring, and the opening date varies by year (do some research here...). You should be fine in the second half of June.

Similarly, Lovers Leap is awesome for ~4 pitch granite trad climbs. A bit more face-climbing oriented in climbing style, but an absolute blast nonetheless. Very good in the lower end of your stated grade range. May might be a bit early, depending on the snow year. June should be perfect.

Red Rocks is awesome, and has tons of long stuff in that grade range. It will be getting warm, but ~ the first week of May will still be quite good for the high up, shady stuff (which, fortunately, includes most of the best long routes). Black Velvet Canyon has many good options... DOWT, Epinephrine, etc. See also Challenger Wall, Dark Shadows, long stuff on Mount Wilson, and more. A lot of Red Rocks is more face-climbing oriented, but there are plenty of cracks too.

Shady stuff in Zion would also be very good in early May (but too hot in June). Lots of cracks.

Colorado would be good for the mid-elevation stuff; not sure where you’ve been. The Black Canyon would be a great choice in May, with very long routes and some serious adventure. Eldo/Lumpy would be a worthy trip also, although (again), you are mostly looking at less than 8 pitches. The South Platte is cool, but some of the best stuff is subject to bird closures in the spring.

Devil’s Tower would be an awesome trip in late May (voluntary closure in June). Again, less than 8 pitches, but those cracks!

Squamish is amazing, and a must visit if you like long crack climbs. The climbing style is somewhat like Yosemite, but the crack lines are (arguably) purer (esp. on the classic moderates), and the rocks quality is (arguably) more consistently good. Lots of stuff in the 8-12 pitch range. The weather can be wet, though. I would not go in May, and conventional wisdom says to not schedule a big trip there before July. However, given patterns in recent years, I would bet that late June there will be really nice. If your trip gets pushed more toward July, then definitely go to Squamish.

Alpine stuff (High Sierra, etc.) is likely out of season during your time frame, depending on the snow year.

Lots of choices. IF any of these really stike your fancy, I (or someone else) could provide more detail and/or route suggestions.

Wow, thank you! This is an amazing list you gave me. I am intrigued by the Needles, but I also thought of some High Sierra stuff- The Incredible Hulk or even Mt. Whitney. Would May be too soon for that due to snow? I guess we could change our objective according to the snow conditions.

If the Sierra snow continues May is going to be too early for the High Sierra, but the latter part of June could work. Whitney Portal may be a good option while you're waiting for the higher elevations to melt out.

Mike Citellus wrote:Wow, thank you! This is an amazing list you gave me. I am intrigued by the Needles, but I also thought of some High Sierra stuff- The Incredible Hulk or even Mt. Whitney. Would May be too soon fot that due to snow? I guess we could change our objective according to the snow conditions.

There are definitely others with more detailed local knowledge, but I would not expect dry rock climbing conditions this coming May in the High Sierra, especially given the likelihood of a wetter El Nino spring in California. If your trip timing shifts toward late June, chances get better.

You could always just head toward California, and choose right before you head out where to go, based on alpine snow conditions and whether the Needles road is open. Worst case scenario, you could just end up in the Valley. Still, the later you push your trip, the more options you'll have.

If you are locked in to early May timing, definitely don't overlook Red Rocks. The prime season there really happens later in the Spring (and earlier in the Fall) than most expect, since the best long routes are high up, windy, and shady. Long days in spring are nice for the long routes, also. Early May would be great.

Mike Citellus wrote:Wow, thank you! This is an amazing list you gave me. I am intrigued by the Needles, but I also thought of some High Sierra stuff- The Incredible Hulk or even Mt. Whitney. Would May be too soon for that due to snow? I guess we could change our objective according to the snow conditions.

Needles....there should be something in shape and the climbing is awesome

Black Canyon if you don't mind dealing with some ticks...cool, multi pitch 5.9/10 and up

john strand wrote:Black Canyon if you don't mind dealing with some ticks...cool, multi pitch 5.9/10 and up

And poison ivy in the loose gully descent approaches, along with some very, [cough] adventurous [cough] pitches.....

True The Black ain't Yosemite or IC

Yeah, Black Canyon is also in our ticklist. But I am afraid we wont make it this time. Thank you All!

Hi,
The date of our trip is from 21. May. How much snow do you expect this year?

Mike Citellus wrote:Hi, The date of our trip is from 21. May. How much snow do you expect this year?

Assuming that you mean the High Sierra, the snow levels are currently hovering around average this year. For reference we climbed the N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak in the High Sierra Memorial Day of 2011 with the record snowpack (~165% of avg), granted with mountaineering boots.

Update: Recent Bishop Pass samples ranged from 69-88% of avg.

Hi, we will arrive to San Fran on Saturday 21 May. Our priorities would be the following: 1. Lovers Leap, 2. Incredible Hulk, 3. Tuolumne Meadows (TMC linkup), 4. Yosemite Valley.

Would the weather go wrong, we would change our plans to the Needles, Charlotte Dome, Calaveras dome.

Does anybody have any info on the current conditions at these spots?

Thanks a lot

Mike Citellus wrote: 2. Incredible Hulk, 3. Tuolumne Meadows (TMC linkup)

Bring snowshoes!

lmgtfy: Tioga Pass snow depth

Andy Novak wrote: Bring snowshoes!

Yeah, your notice realy helps me a lot, thank you. I am checking all snowreports on the internet of course, but the knowledge of locals is irreplaceable.

Btw. Do you know that your surname is Czech?

The needles road is apparently closed until around memorial day.

Mike Citellus wrote:Hi, we will arrive to San Fran on Saturday 21 May. Our priorities would be the following: 1. Lovers Leap, 2. Incredible Hulk, 3. Tuolumne Meadows (TMC linkup), 4. Yosemite Valley. Would the weather go wrong, we would change our plans to the Needles, Charlotte Dome, Calaveras dome. Does anybody have any info on the current conditions at these spots? Thanks a lot

Don't think the road to the Needles is open yet. Call the Forest Service in Springville to find out. If it's not open, you're looking at a five mile hike to the Needles from the highway (I've heard some people ride bicycles)

Make sure Highway 120 is open, otherwise you won't be going to Tuolumne.
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/…

Still sounds like you'll have a great trip.

Calaveras Dome is great nowadays, did Sands of Time and Wall of the Worlds (might avoid this one due to nesting falcons) this past weekend and didn't see any other climbers. It usually gets on the "too hot" side by mid/late June.