Trad and True
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On the FA the route was rap cleaned then led ground up. It still needs a good cleaning periodically, to get the loose dirt out of the gear placements and in the vertical seam section, since it gets runoff from the trail above.
You start at the far left end of the slab, just right of the mossy stuff. Climb straight up a ways to a horizontal crack that takes good gear, continue up past a vertical seam, then traverse right about 8' until you're under the obvious horizontal overlap. You can crawl under the overlap and place a couple of decent cams, then pull the overlap on nice small face holds, wander up the face above to a hidden #3.5 Friend or #3 Camalot on your left, then finish up the obvious thin crack through the bulge to the top. You can share the bolted anchor station with Pepsi.
This is the left most route on the slab wall. A 60 meter rope requires a little finagling to get you safely on the dirt from the anchor station on rappel. Lowering off from that station is not recommended, unless you rig several slings off the anchor bolts.
Trad gear of course, mostly cams, doubles in the 2.5 to 3.5 Friend or 2 to 3 Camalot. TCU type of stuff for the start and finish.
|Comments on Trad and True
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jul 1, 2009
Doubles of #2 C4 mandatory. Did it once with out it and it makes for a 50ft. ground fall. First piece is high and that area is often sandy. Better like slab. Try traversing from the start of Pepsi for some added fun.
From: Red River Gorge
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
You could do this route without a single number 2. A number 3, which I didn't bring, would really take some of the runout out. No matter what you bring, there are a few sections with insecure, sandy moves with severe potential for injury in a fall.