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TR 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA--Tom Rosecrans and Paul Laskey / FFA--Steve Hendrick and Jay Philbrick, 4/80
Page Views: 4,264
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Aug 1, 2007
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Chris Duca on TR.

Photo by-- Graham McDowell

Description 

TR is THE line if you are looking for steep crack climbing littered with rest jugs, great gear, and a stunning position.

The route name is by no means an indicator as to how the first ascentionist would like to see every subsequent ascent. On the contrary, this route protects extremely well, and the initials are simply the initials of the person responsible for finding this stunning line--Tom Rosecrans.

The route begins in a cave-like feature about 60 or 70 feet right of the dominant right-facing corner of the cliff, and boulders up, and then out of the cave to welcomed jugs.

Continue up the impeccable crack until it forks. Take both cracks up until it reaches a few thin crux moves below a flat ledge at about 55 or 60 feet. Above, a few more feet of moderate, but pumpy crack climbing guard the climbs' end at a sloping, vegetated ledge. Traverse left about 8 feet, up onto a block where bolted rap-ring anchors are gained.


Location 

60 or 70 feet right of major right-facing corner of the cliff.


Protection 

Standard rack. Bolts and rap-rings for the anchor.



Photos of TR Slideshow Add Photo
It doesn't get much better than this.
It doesn't get much better than this.
Alexa on TR
Alexa on TR
me rocking through the sketch start of TR, psyched to get that 3.5 in haha
me rocking through the sketch start of TR, psyched...
Comments on TR Add Comment
Show which comments
By stredna
From: PA
Dec 29, 2009

5.9, right?!

By tom rosecrans
Jul 1, 2011

Hi Chris--it's Tom Rosecrans, not Rosencrans. Thanks

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 4, 2011

Thanks, Tom! The change has been made.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

just below the 3.5 Camelot you can get a nice red metolius which actually seemed even more bomber and protects the initial chimney roof nicely.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

btw - this seems to be the best 5.10 at the web judging from the folks I have spoken with. Would be a good candidate anywhere for the best 5.10....

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2012

Those folks must not have climbed on the loose... :)

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 5, 2012

After having climbed TR and OTL several times this season thus far, I would have to agree with Eric's statement.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Did not like OTL as much - too much grunting and granite humping though admittedly I don't have the best technique on wider cracks.