TR 5.10a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | FA--Tom Rosecrans and Paul Laskey / FFA--Steve Hendrick and Jay Philbrick, 4/80 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Duca on Aug 1, 2007 |
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Chris Duca on TR.
Photo by-- Graham McDowell
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Description TR is THE line if you are looking for steep crack climbing littered with rest jugs, great gear, and a stunning position.
The route name is by no means an indicator as to how the first ascentionist would like to see every subsequent ascent. On the contrary, this route protects extremely well, and the initials are simply the initials of the person responsible for finding this stunning line--Tom Rosecrans.
The route begins in a cave-like feature about 60 or 70 feet right of the dominant right-facing corner of the cliff, and boulders up, and then out of the cave to welcomed jugs.
Continue up the impeccable crack until it forks. Take both cracks up until it reaches a few thin crux moves below a flat ledge at about 55 or 60 feet. Above, a few more feet of moderate, but pumpy crack climbing guard the climbs' end at a sloping, vegetated ledge. Traverse left about 8 feet, up onto a block where bolted rap-ring anchors are gained.
Location 60 or 70 feet right of major right-facing corner of the cliff.
Protection Standard rack. Bolts and rap-rings for the anchor.
Alexa on TR
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It doesn't get much better than this.
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me rocking through the sketch start of TR, psyched...
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By stredna
From: PA
Dec 29, 2009
| 5.9, right?! |
By tom rosecrans
Jul 1, 2011
| Hi Chris--it's Tom Rosecrans, not Rosencrans. Thanks |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 4, 2011
| Thanks, Tom! The change has been made. |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
May 19, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b
| just below the 3.5 Camelot you can get a nice red metolius which actually seemed even more bomber and protects the initial chimney roof nicely. |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
May 20, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b
| btw - this seems to be the best 5.10 at the web judging from the folks I have spoken with. Would be a good candidate anywhere for the best 5.10.... |
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2012
| Those folks must not have climbed on the loose... :) |
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Jul 5, 2012
| After having climbed TR and OTL several times this season thus far, I would have to agree with Eric's statement. |
By colin rickert
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b
| Did not like OTL as much - too much grunting and granite humping though admittedly I don't have the best technique on wider cracks. |
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