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TR routes in WNC
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By JMKeupp
From Asheville, NC
Mar 22, 2014
Ice Climbing in the Catskills

I have someone asking me to take them on their first climbs, I don't feel comfortable letting them belay me on lead yet. But as long as a get a TR set up going I wing have to worry about getting dropped when it's my turn to get some laps, so I figure if I can get TR going I can have him keep me tight when I think I'll need it, also I'm limited by the amount of my own pro. Can anyone point me in the direction of a TR heavy wall? I saw Lichen or not on Looking Glass will be a nice start for him, is there an easy set up to the anchors? Are there other TR routes nearby? I've climbed there but haven't really kept my eyes open for TR routes before.


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By John Braun
From Hendersonville, NC
Mar 23, 2014

My knowledge is limited but I'll start.
-Crowders Mountain is super top-rope friendly and may be your best bet.
Most routes are setup with easy to access bolts on top.
-South side of Looking Glass has a ledge you can access with a fourth-class climb. You can use gear to set anchors over a handful of easy and moderate routes. I recall using large cams to set up TRs on Lichen and Bloody Crack.
-Bradley Falls is a beautiful location in the summer but it chossy and muddy. However, it is just a fun spot and newbies don't always appreciate quality rock anyway.


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By AD_Ange
Mar 23, 2014

www.mountainproject.com/v/pickens-nose/108529256


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By Scott Phil
From NC
Mar 23, 2014

Crowders will have the most options and would be more comfortable this time of year than later in the season.

For the south side of Looking Glass you could do several things on the Short Mans Sorrow wall immediately to the right of Bloody Crack. Theoretically you could also set up a TR on some of the routes to the left of Bloody Crack, but I would hesitate to do so with an inexperienced partner. It has been a long time since I've been on Lichen or Not, but suspect that it will be running water.

It is a bit of a drive from Asheville, but the Chimneys to the south of Table Rock are also good and the location should inspire your friend to want to climb more. The other nice thing about the Chimneys is that if you discover that your friend is a competent belayer it would be easy to transition to some of the easier routes on the east face of Table Rock. The Chimneys are also closer to Asheville than Pickens Nose.

Scott


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By Chris Massey
Mar 23, 2014

Though it seems like a sacrilege to drive from Asheville to go climbing at Crowders, it is your best TR option. Its right in my backyard, and though I dont go there often, it does have more TR options than anywhere else. The climbs are spread out all over the mountain, but take a look at Davids Castle, Backside Middle Finger/Fortress Wall, and Practice Wall. Among those three areas there are easily a dozen routes with top access to rings. The top roping at LG always seemed a little contrived to me and not really worth the effort, but maybe thats because we are usually there for trad multi pitch.


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By JMKeupp
From Asheville, NC
Mar 24, 2014
Ice Climbing in the Catskills

Crowders and Pickens are exactly what I'm looking for! But we're running out of AVL and the person I'm taking is someone who I would not necessarily want to be in a car with for an 1.5 hrs+, not that he's a bad dude, just our personalities don't exactly mesh, but I want him to get exposure to climbing since that's something he's interested in.

I'll probably take him to the SW of LG, or try and find something at Rumbling Bald since he does have bouldering experience, and we can always bail on the TR there and boulder. Better ideas? Now that I've explained more. I'll probably head out to Crowders or Pickens with my wife since she'd like to get started too.


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By Chris Malloy
From Valdese, NC
Mar 28, 2014

Probably too late to be off any help but we recently found rocky face recreational area. Place is perfect for taking out first timers. Cliff is 100 feet from the car. Easy walk around top rope access. Easy small stuff on the left side of the cliff to bolster confidence. Area was bolted by a guide so he could bring clients to climb. Sport climbs have one move to the first bolt.


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