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 ADVANCED
Twin Owls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alignment of the Misaligned T,TR 
Anaconda T 
Arm and Hammer 
Autumn Mist 
Black Lichen Streak TR 
Bloop T 
Bowels of the Owls, The T 
Caught in the Slaughterhouse T 
Cavity, The 
Central Chimney T 
Conan's Gonads (Conad's) T 
Condones T 
Copperhead 
Coyote T,S 
Crack of Fear T 
East Ridge T 
Fist Fight T 
Hungry Man 
Jamesia Jam T 
King Cobra 
One of Life's Little Problems T 
Organ Pipes T 
Parachute Pants T 
Peaches and Cream T 
Pin Route T 
Prow, The T 
Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Rattler 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
Thimbleberry Jam T 
Thin Crack T,TR 
Tiger's Tooth T 
Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
Viper 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
Wolf's Tooth T 
Unsorted Routes:

TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: TR'd by many-Led by few
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Roy Leggett on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This is the right side start to W. Owl Direct. It is referred to in the guidebook as a TR, but I know of several people who have red-pointed it, and even a recent onsight lead. It is a bit spicy, but not unreasonable.

The start is unprotected and bouldery, and I would recommend anchoring the belayer as to not lose the climber and belayer down off the Roosting Ramp in the event of a fall from the starting moves. The flake/block at the start of the crack is loose and you should not place gear behind it or pull on it too aggressively. There are several great stopper placement and shallow cam placements on the climb. The crux takes an OK .5 Camalot, but an equivalent sized offset cam would be ideal.

The climbing is flared and sustained. The crux is a bit gymnastic and probably more difficult for shorter folks. This would be a proud start to Silly Puddy.

Protection 

Stoppers and cams to .5 Camalot. Doubles in the finger sizes. An offset cam equivalent to a .5/.75 Camalot would be nice.


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