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The Christian Brothers
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Unknown 10c 
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Wartley's Revenge 

Toys In The Attic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: (coming soon)
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,384
Submitted By: rpc on Jan 26, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

Toys in the attic follows a nice crack in a deep recess/chimney (capped by a roof) on the west side of The Christian Brothers formation. Start up easy (guano filled) crack on left side of chimney (5.6 at bottom). Going gradually steepens but the rock and crack quality steadily improve. Crack turns into an OW (#4-#4.5 Camalot useful) near the ceiling. At the ceiling, traverse DOWN and left following a finger crack (crux?) for about 20 feet to bolt anchor. Note that the route is scarier to follow than to lead.


Protection 

Cams from about 1/2 inch to 5 inch (possibly doubles from 1/2-2 inch range). Few mid-sized nuts.



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My wife following Toys In The Attic route.  Photo taken from belay.
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By another Chad
Apr 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This climb is great and would probably get a lot more traffic if it weren't so scary/dangerous to follow. I didn't feel the need for anything bigger than a #4 C4 although there is a spot where a #5 could be thrown in.


Chad

By TofuTodd
Apr 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

apparently this route gets little traffic. Down low it's jamming in dead grass/rat nests. Above the appeal gains as the crack goes overhanging. FWIW, I thought the crux fist jams were almost on par with Fisticuffs in J-tree (10b). Maybe if you stem the grade drops, but I jammed both feet in the crack and felt the overhang!