Type: |
Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
FA: | Charlie Fowler 1986 |
Page Views: | 1,347 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Oct 22, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Short and steep with some very questionable flakes and a spooky, but relatively easy slab finish.
Find the obvious Mr. Natural hand crack on the Redgarden West Face approach trail. Just left of that is a smooth face bounded by a left-facing chimney on right and a corner/groove on the left. Just right of the corner/groove is the Toys for Tots face with two bolts.
Climb to the first bolt, avoiding using the corner if possible, make crux moves a bit left of the bolt to good holds. Angle right on some very questionable flakes and clip the second bolt. Pull up and right onto the base of a slab. You can get some sketchy gear in a flake here. Step up onto two big footholds but with not much for the hands. Either lean right to a big flake or make some thin moves up the slab, and on to the red band.
Place some cams in a good block and in a good horizontal crack to the left. You can toprope from this anchor. The second to last person in the party should travese right to the tree on Mr. Natural and belay the last person from there. Rappel from the Mr. Natural tree.
Find the obvious Mr. Natural hand crack on the Redgarden West Face approach trail. Just left of that is a smooth face bounded by a left-facing chimney on right and a corner/groove on the left. Just right of the corner/groove is the Toys for Tots face with two bolts.
Climb to the first bolt, avoiding using the corner if possible, make crux moves a bit left of the bolt to good holds. Angle right on some very questionable flakes and clip the second bolt. Pull up and right onto the base of a slab. You can get some sketchy gear in a flake here. Step up onto two big footholds but with not much for the hands. Either lean right to a big flake or make some thin moves up the slab, and on to the red band.
Place some cams in a good block and in a good horizontal crack to the left. You can toprope from this anchor. The second to last person in the party should travese right to the tree on Mr. Natural and belay the last person from there. Rappel from the Mr. Natural tree.
Protection
2 good 3/8" bolts protect the hard sections. Microcams in the corner to the left protect the first clip. Above the second bolt it's runout slab at about 5.8. You can get some brass nuts and small cams to green Alien in a flake before the runout, but the flake is expanding, so the gear is doubtful. Cams from about 0.5 to #2 Camalot to set up the anchor.
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