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Spiney Ridge
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Return of the Headhunters S 
Rising, The S 
Short & Sweet S 
Stone of Ignorance S 
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Sugar and Spice S 
Toxxxic Entertainment S 
Tractatus S 
Travis is Sole King S 
Tree Trimmer S 
Weapons Of Mass Arousal S 
Unsorted Routes:

Toxxxic Entertainment 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Rick Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 2,427
Submitted By: Brad Short on Apr 20, 2003

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Bill gaining the flake.

Description 

Start at a small, left-facing corner, working your way up to a reasonable stance below the obvious, layback flake. Power up the layback (with reasonable feet after the first moves) and stretch right to the anchors shared with Nalalator.

It is a fun climb, and the layback is not all that pumpy if a good pace is maintained. This is a well-protected route.

The new D'Antonio guidebook (2010), has an error on the photo portion of Spiney Ridge. It appears the route lines are shifted making Toxxxic Entertainment appear to be Purple Toe Nails.


Location 

This is two routes right of Travis is Soul King.


Protection 

8 bolts plus anchors.



Photos of Toxxxic Entertainment Slideshow Add Photo
Bill throwing for the crimps.
Bill throwing for the crimps.
Spiney Ridge - left. <br /> <br />Sunday Pockets is renamed 20th Century Man in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guidebook.
BETA PHOTO: Spiney Ridge - left.

Sunday Pockets is renamed 20...
Bart Calkins starting up the beautiful layback flake.
Bart Calkins starting up the beautiful layback fla...
Toxxxic Entertainment from the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Toxxxic Entertainment from the start of the route.
Bill throwing for the crimps.
Bill throwing for the crimps.
Didn't seem Toxxxic at all to me; very enjoyable if you've got any crack skills at all, 10-24-09.
Didn't seem Toxxxic at all to me; very e...
Adam.
Adam.
Comments on Toxxxic Entertainment Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darin Lang
Apr 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

You can double your fun on this one by jamming the layback flack. Stellar hand jams, and much more skin-friendly than most at Shelf.

By Darin Lang
Apr 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I meant layback "flake", of course.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun! The flake has a good edge all the way up, and the airy layback makes this one of the best 10a routes on the cliff.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 4, 2004

I agree - excellent and really fun climbing. My thanks to the FA's. Also, perfectly bolted (i.e. very safe) for the nascent 5.10 leader.

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 9, 2013

Way fun climb! A must do. 10a may be a letter grade soft. This felt a lot like Crack of Dawn 10b, so 10a/b I think is fair. Little mix up in Bob D.'s guidebook with this one and Purple Toenails 11c, so heads up.

By Jessica Jensen
Apr 22, 2014

Great climb! Definitely a must do.
BEWARE: climbed today, found out the hard way that there is a swift bird's nest in the crack. Found myself being dive bombed by a swarm of swifts trying to protect the nest. Make sure to listen carefully for chirps in the crack to avoid any bird attacks.
Apart from that, promising holds and fun moves. Enjoy!