Toxic Waltz  5.12a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Tom Gilje & Mike Lechlinksi, 1990 Submitted By:  Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

To the right of Pat Adams Dihedral is this steep arete. Five bolts lead up the arete. This climb is MUCH more difficult than currently rated, in part because I broke a crimp while trying it in January of '06. At the current time, the crux is probably a V7 boulder problem followed by a difficult perch move on a large horn and more thin face climbing. The climbing is very good and the position is spectacular.

Location 

This route is located a pitch off the ground; it starts on a ledge above Leap Year Flake, a good 5.7 (protection difficult) on its own. It is a good ways left of the "main" right section of the Dairy Queen Wall.

Protection 

At least five quickdraws. Beware the first clipping hold/stick clip the first bolt: a broken hold/fall would deposit the climber directly onto a yucca (or nolina; not sure which) and possibly off the ledge if the belayer is not anchored. No anchor exists at the top save old slings around a bush/sapling: exercise extreme caution with the bush/sapling and maybe bring something else to leave up there. It is possible to walk off via a complicated route over the top and down and around the back of the formation. 5th class climbing/downclimbing/traversing is mandatory.