Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Tower Of Power
Select Route:
Tower Of Power T 

Tower Of Power 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Max Kendall, Robert Warren, and Steve Wood, 1990
Season: Summers are hot!
Page Views: 1,269
Submitted By: S.Mckinna on Apr 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Topo.

Description 

This is a classic corner climb to an amazing horizontal roof traverse, the route would be a prize to free climb. The tough climbing is well-protected. I had to use several points of aid but I think free climbing is totally reasonable.

Pitch 1. 100', 5.10+. Start up the corner through a short section of flakes and blocks. Climb into perfect hands to a pod, pull a roof and wrestle the steep, cupped hand crack to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. 60-70', 5.11. Continue up the corner through another blocky section followed by a hand crack that goes to super tight hands at a steep angle. Then get mentaly prepared to traverse about 20' right under a giant roof protected with a black Alien size and some other finger sizes. Make the exposed moves around to a huge ledge. I looked for a good spot to belay but found none on the ledge and decided to climb the giant flake to the other side. On the east side of the flake I made an anchor with #3 Camalot sizes. The other option I saw was to belay after passing the roof also on the same cams, this would ease rope drag but make for a crammed and uncomfortable belay.

Pitch 3. 20-30', 5.8R. A face climb. Climb up the flake to the top and stuff 2 or 3 cams in a shallow, horizontal seam and then go for it. Not so scary, but the protection does not inspire confidence. Belay on cracks on a big boulder on top.

I would belay your partner to the rap station as it requires a short downclimb. Throw the rope over the boulder on top and do a quick body belay so you can access the 2 bolt rap station on the northeast corner of the tower. An eighty foot rap gets you to the ground. Scamble southeast back down to your gear.

Protection 

One set of Aliens. Camalot sizes: 4 sets of #1, #2, #3, two #4s, and a #0.75. 5-8 long runners, new webbing for the rappel, and one 60m rope.


Photos of Tower Of Power Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep wide hands pitch 1.  Carson photo.
Steep wide hands pitch 1. Carson photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Large summit.  You can see your gear at the start ...
Large summit. You can see your gear at the start ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2, this cam caught my fall eventually.  Cars...
Pitch 2, this cam caught my fall eventually. Cars...
Rock Climbing Photo: Carson on pitch 1.
Carson on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: You gotta look down!  Carson photo.
You gotta look down! Carson photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The rappel.  Carson photo.
The rappel. Carson photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: On top of the flake before face climbing pitch 3.
On top of the flake before face climbing pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tower of Power.
Tower of Power.

Comments on Tower Of Power Add Comment
Show which comments
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Dec 6, 2015

Shaded in December. Sufficient rack, including anchors: small cams, a couple medium nuts, 0.4 (1) 0.5 (1) 0.75 (1) #1 (2), #2 (2), #3 (3), and #4 (1). Bring extra #3s depending on hand size.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!