2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
2 sport routes, and a trad route (which is no where to be found in guide books). This is the pinnacle just up the canyon, on the south side, from Boulder Falls. It's somewhat chossy near the bottom, but has some big powerful moves once on the arete. It's fronted by the creek, and some tall pines, and receives mid-afternoon sun, but is relatively shady, except for the very top of the tower.
One can start the right most route (sandbagged 11a) down in the creek, or can hike up and around to start a couple of bolts up. Some people even cliff jump into the raging creek below. Legend has it that the creek's small waterfall at the base of the tower has carved out such a deep hole down below, no man can touch the bottom.
Park at Boulder Falls, 8 miles up the canyon, on the south side. Walk up the canyon around the bend, and you will see the tower on the left (south side). You can walk through the creek during low tide season, or I've read in guidebooks that there is a tyrolean (but I didn't see one anywhere near the tower).
This route wasn't in the book, but it's on the far right of the tower and is west-facing. Do a bouldery start off the small ledge, but it is easy to pre-clip the first bolt. Crank on good crimpers to gain the ramp - good luck being graceful - then continue up towards the anchors. This has fun and powerful climbing. I don't know what the official rating is, it felt like 11+ to me....[more]Browse More Classics in CO