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Tower One

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L to R R to L Alpha
Armed and Hammered 
Bollocks 
Brainless Conformants 
Cause for Alarm 
Cheap Thrills 
Hell is for Children 
Little Hellion 
Medussa 
Pandora 
Rezin Scraper 
Shelter from the Storm 
What the Hell 

Tower One 


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Elevation: 8,500'
Page Views: 8,336
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 12, 2007
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Pandora
  • As for all Hellgate areas
  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.

  • Description 

    Tower One is the southeast most tower of the three main towers. It is usually the first wall one encounters during the approach to Main Hellgate.

    Mugs Stump and friends were the first to really start exploring this area. A high concentration of good climbing in a small area awaits the climber here. Bring gear to supplement the bolt placements as most of the Tower One climbing remains quite trad in character. You'll like it!


    Getting There 

    As for Main Hellgate. Stick to the trail. This will be the first tower low and east that one encounters. Plan on about a 15 minute approach time. Avoid trespassing on private property.


    12 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tower One:
    Little Hellion   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
    Bollocks   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Cause for Alarm   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 100'   
    Armed and Hammered   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Brainless Conformants   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 155'   
    Medussa   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Shelter from the Storm   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches   
    Pandora   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
    Browse More Classics in Tower One

    Featured Route For Tower One
    Medussa at Hellgate.  Looks like hell but its a fun climb.  Steep limestone in LCC

    Medussa 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Tower One
    One of the best sport routes in Little Cottonwood. Starts out slabby, turns vertical and then steepens for the steepest .11 climbing I've seen anywhere....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    Photos of Tower One Slideshow Add Photo
    Hellgate Cliffs
    BETA PHOTO: Hellgate Cliffs
    Comments on Tower One Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Nubbins80
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Aug 7, 2008

    Does anyone have info on the route just right of Medussa that travels up through the steepest part of the cave?

    Thanks