Tow Away Zone 

Another great route on this east face. Some nice liebacking (not mandatory as one of my partners just face-climbed to the bolt), followed by either steep face climbing or wide stemming, followed by a nice sew-it-up hand crack. The traverse to the anchors will have your second cursing at you, if they don't like runout. But it is very easy.

Another belay option (standard bolts can be crowded as they're used by multiple lines) is to make a long & runout slab run (right and up) to the slung 4-foot horn atop Funky Bolt. No pro but the slab is low 5th class. Not sure if single rope would work for rapping off here though.

I made the first ascent of this route in 1968, with Jon Marsh, without the bolt.

Pretty cool, Jeff! Bet it was a pretty different place back then.

Cheers!

Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a chore. Bring the small stuff if you are going to get this one without a stick clip. Above the small roof lies one of the finest hand size cracks in the area.

The stances were a little tenuous, but I got a good camalot and alien in before the bolt, so it didn't feel too spicy. Great route!

Agreed. Very good route with a somewhat tricky start. Above the bolt is a great moderate handcrack. Extra # 1,2 camalots helpful.

If you want to avoid the traverse to anchors, continue climbing up the crack to chains just left of the crack at about 110-115'. This is the best option, but you MUST have two ropes or a 70m cord to get down..

There was chains at the top and we made it back down fine w/ a 60m... it's right at 1oo ft. tall.

i got a good offset in one of the pods down low, enjoy the splitter up top!

I tried left after the bolt and was shut down. Gear to the right looked bad. Got a couple c3s in below the bolt. IMHO this route is not for the new 10a climber, the lieback/slab moves were awkward for me ESP plugging gear. but I'm not good on granite, feel I have to add a grade to most. The crack above looks amazing, maybe next time!

A high friction-y stance with my left hand in the under cling allowed me to reach for the chalked up jug above the roof with my right hand. A few decent pinches for the left hand and more high feet made pulling the roof pretty simple. Great hand and foot jamming up the crack, with some face features along the way. Fun route!