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Toviah Tower
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Pyramid Expedition, The T 
Toviah Tower T 

Toviah Tower 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,412
Submitted By: USBRIT on Sep 5, 2005

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Toviah Tower from the North


Toviah Tower III 550' 5.8+.

The route starts from the gully (SW side of the tower) on the right that separates Toviah from Nemo. Its about a half hour easy walk from campsite. Midway along the walk the White Knight tower can be seen on the left about a mile down in the Eagle Canyon area. Toviah Tower is unusual for a desert tower in that the crux pitches involve slab climbing.

P1) Walk into the gully, and the route starts up the slab just right of a large dead tree leaning against the rock. Trend left above the tree to the foot of an open groove (drilled angle piton), and then up the groove to double anchors.190' 5.7+ R

P2) Angle up left past a bolt at 20', and then left to the gray band of rock (bolt). Continue straight up past another bolt to the south summit ridge. 160' 5.8+ R

P3) 4th class up the ridge towards the summit until it steepens about 60' from the top.

P4) Go right to a bush in a groove below a chimney just below the summit. Up the slab and chimney to a fine summit(double anchors) and great views over the northern swell. 60' 5.4

Descent :- Rap the route. FA. Paul Ross Layne Potter 5th Sept 2005.


Cams:-#.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #3 camalot, #4 Friend. Two 60M ropes.

Photos of Toviah Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Toviah Tower, ...
Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Toviah Tower, ...
Ross and Potter on the first pitch
Ross and Potter on the first pitch
The route
The route
On the summit of Toviah, the  view over the Northe...
On the summit of Toviah, the view over the Northe...
The 5.8 second pitch
The 5.8 second pitch

Comments on Toviah Tower Add Comment
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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Oct 27, 2005

The route starts in the gully on the SW side of the tower not SE .. sorry.
By Ben Folsom
Sep 26, 2006

Maura H. and I did the second ascent of Toviah Tower on Sept. 24, 2006. Thanks for the bottle of Scotch left up there! We enjoyed it. I thought the first two pitches were great quality face climbing, and the summit and views couldn't be beat.
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 27, 2011

Got lost on the second pitch, missed the very run out 2nd bolt, and took a huge (40+ feet) fall. I couldn't find the 2nd bolt (it blended into the rock very well!)and was within 10 feet of the anchor when I finally saw the bolt, tried to down climb/traverse to the bolt and slipped. Easy route otherwise, maybe another bolt could be added to the crux pitch? Great route that I will definitely repeat.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Sep 5, 2011

Good one Bob.. glad you had fun !
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