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The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
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Bete Noir 
Black Toe Arete 
Borg, The 
Burnt Toast, The 
Capital Outlay 
Chuana Chavaria 
Cold Feet 
Datura 
Delilah 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Locutus 
Magus, The 
Pincher 
Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Triage 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Tout Tout de Suite 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
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Tout climbs over the obvious roof, then up the sh...

Description 

Like its neighbor to the right, Tout is one of the best 5.12s at Shelf, offering unforgettable movement on flawless stone. Despite the glaring similarities, this route is quite a bit different than Bete Noir, with shorter reaches between much smaller holds getting over the roof. This line is a also a bit more sustained, offering up a second technical crux just below the chains.

Begin up the easy slab to a good stance below the roof. Take a few deep breaths, hike up your feet, and grope over the lip for the key pocket. Work the feet, get the other hand up, and commence an intense sequence of precise stabs for the small edges & pockets that lead up over the lip. Once your feet are established over the lip things ease considerably with a nice shake in the shallow dihedral. Continue with relative ease up the aesthetic dihedral, to a brown, rippled slab. Diminishing holds lead up the slab to a pair of shallow monos that provide one last chance to survey the terrain before the thin slab crux.


Location 

Located 6' left of Bete Noir, this is the left of two routes surmounting a prominent 3' roof, 15' above the ground.


Protection 

7 Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



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