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5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 48 votes
Type: | Sport, 320 ft (97 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Scott Ayers, et al. |
Page Views: | 4,700 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 4, 2009 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is a fun bolted line to the right of Mystery of the Desert. The climbing is mostly slab and a few tricky stemming face moves.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 70')- Easy slab climbing straight up the bolts to the two bolt anchor. The crux is just after the first bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.10a, 80')- Follow the bolt line up and right from the anchor. The crux involves interesting face and stem moves to negotiate an angled bulge. Staying low when traversing to this bulge helps, as well as utilizing small holds to the right of the bulge. Continue up and left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10a/b, 90') - climb up and right following more bolts. Enter a short oval dish-shaped feature and figure out the clever stemming moves. Exit this feature and stay right of the bolt line as you climb to another two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.6R, 85') - follow the jagged arete to up and slightly left to a tree at the summit. You will find a two bolt anchor directly underneath it. The climbing is easy but protection is a bit scarce in the beginning of the pitch.
Descend by rapping the route.
A topo for this route can be downloaded from
toofasttopos.com/free/
Pitch 1 (5.9, 70')- Easy slab climbing straight up the bolts to the two bolt anchor. The crux is just after the first bolt.
Pitch 2 (5.10a, 80')- Follow the bolt line up and right from the anchor. The crux involves interesting face and stem moves to negotiate an angled bulge. Staying low when traversing to this bulge helps, as well as utilizing small holds to the right of the bulge. Continue up and left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10a/b, 90') - climb up and right following more bolts. Enter a short oval dish-shaped feature and figure out the clever stemming moves. Exit this feature and stay right of the bolt line as you climb to another two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.6R, 85') - follow the jagged arete to up and slightly left to a tree at the summit. You will find a two bolt anchor directly underneath it. The climbing is easy but protection is a bit scarce in the beginning of the pitch.
Descend by rapping the route.
A topo for this route can be downloaded from
toofasttopos.com/free/
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