|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy & Ants Leemets - 1961|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006|
|Comments on Tough Shift||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Mr. Malloc
Nov 17, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
|The start is tough with thin protection...on a dicey little crack. Then when you get below the roof, there is a nice section that if you come off, you gonna be FLYIN! For maximum fun, pull the roof straight above this last run-out move (make sure you took your biggest piece with you, to stick under the roof (3.5 or 4 Camalot)...this roof brings the grade up to 5.10c or 5.10d (the Dick Williams Gunks Select book says to exit on the easy roof of Graveyard Shift).|
By vanishing spy
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
I still need to lead this one but will note that Mr. Malloc is right on about the gear. Typically there is gear under such a roof, but somehow it's shallow and wide. My friend barely got a 3 in and said it wouldn't hold and a 4 may be too big. Standing up and reaching over the roof is committing and a fall would be bad news.
I can't wait to give it a go on the sharp end :D
By Dana Bartlett
Aug 13, 2010
|The previous comment seems right to me. The piece I had under the roof was terrible; the crack is just too shallow to take anything that would hold. However, it is possible to get a small cam just above the roof.|
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 19, 2011
|#3 Camalot is bomber under the roof.|
From: NY, NY
Apr 19, 2015
Agree with the above. The number 3 is bomber under the final roof. You'll definitely want to bring it.
Fantastic route. Pulling the roof to the right as Mr Malloc describes (basically directly above the jug at the end of the crux) is a better line. Not sure I'd call it 10c though, especially when compared to the grades of the surrounding routes.
EDIT: Apparently Swain gives the direct finish 11a. I'll take it... Did it again, and it is indeed a tough move.
Also thought the first moves in the crack were tricky, but very well protected.
The runout is scary, but you probably won't die if you fall.
Again, really awesome route. Full value.