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Tough Love S 

Tough Love 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Curt Love
Season: Summer
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: WAGbag on Jul 23, 2012

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Description 

If you climb the grade, get on this!
If you don't, this is the reason to train.
Put off that patio project for another summer and go climbing instead. Miss your son's birthday because of good temps. It's that good.

It's a well bolted line that dominantly follows the arete, staying on the right face with a few shared holds with the climb to the left, Sith.

Hit the first two bolts with a devious thin sequence and tenuous second clip (there could be other more secure beta here). Make a big move to a tiny hold then grab the solid left sidepull for the 3rd clip. Gain the matched crimp for the 4th clip. Take a deep breath then enter the crux. Apparently my method is not the approved method, but it worked. Cross right right hand to the 45 degree portion of the crimp rail then work the left hand up the arete. Paste your right foot on the very edge of the arete, up high (smear only). Flag the left around the arete then lunge to the shallow heart-shaped pocket. Work over to the clip then up for one last hard move: Left pocket, right mono, high left foot then crank into the jug for a rest.

From here follow the arete but it's only sporting to try and stay on the right face as much as possible. The middle 3rd of the climb is fairly easy but super fun. There's some harder moves at the top so keep the pump under control. Keep pushing until you gain the hold over the anchors.

Location 

Look for the best looking line on the wall. This is it.

Protection 

12 bolts


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