|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Bret and Stuart Ruckman, 1990|
|Submitted By:||grk10vq on Aug 27, 2010|
|Comments on Touchy Subject||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By John Steiger
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|This has cleaned up very well; no “blanket of choss” here. The last clip (above the double bolts) is a hidden Lost Arrow driven straight down; looks solid, but I don’t think you want to whip on it.|
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Apr 19, 2012
|Older bolts make this one a bit more nerve racking, could use some updates. The hangers are those thin sheet metal looking items. There is another weird anchor on this one, two bolts of different ages offset and not equalized. Or continue up to find the hidden pin and on up to the top anchor. recommend stopping before pin.|
Oct 2, 2012
|If you watch your partner lead it first you'll see where the good holds are and make this a super high flow jug-to-jug-fest. Its cool when you can turn your hips and skip the hard holds! Also, its not necessary but nice to have a cam or two for the belay.|
By Rick Vance
Nov 5, 2012
|Bolts and hangers have been replaced as of 11/4/12.|
From: Small Lake, UT
Feb 22, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
A bit of clarification: the original line heads up and right from the intermediate anchor, aiming for a pin hidden inside a large mouth-shaped pocket then into a crack. It finishes at a 2 bolt anchor shared with Nettle. Probably 11+ including the finish, maybe 11c to the intermediate anchor.
The variation avoids the pin and shoots up and left along the arete , clipping a new bolt and sharing the anchors of the Daisy extension. The moves are pumpy and the rock is solid. The FA apparently went left of the arete in the shallow dihedral using sloping holds, the grade being really hard 11. I found that way to be way stout and instead stayed right of the arete on the face, pulling one really hard move while seriously pumped. The shuffle along the upper edge of the buttress to reach the anchor was engaging. Grade-wise, 11d+/12a seemed justified considering the bottom delivers a mean pump.
Of note, the original line (as shown in the guidebook) tops out and the rock is no worse than anywhere else on the wall. Lowering off the intermediate anchor should be recorded as a non-send on 8a. Leaver-biner factory!