This route may have another name, but not that I'm aware of. A linkup of a couple different routes, including Cannibal Gully and Touch And Go; has enough independent climbing that it deserves its own spot in here. P1: Head up offwidth-looking crack on left side of Cannibal Gully. After ~60', traverse right across face to chain anchor at base of dihedral. P2: Climb 2nd pitch dihedral of Touch and Go. Belay at end of slabby section. P3: Head up corner to Lizard Ledge (Touch and Go climbs crack on face to the arete). This corner has cleaned up nicely, and is the money pitch. Crux of route is the last move to gain Lizard Ledge. P4: choose any Lizard Ledge exit pitch.
Starts at base of Cannibal Gully, on far left side of Black Wall. Walk off to left.
Gear to 4". Fixed anchors at top of 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I don't really know if this route is a separate route or if its just a variation to Touch and Go. 10 years ago this crack / corner was filled with choss,moss, and loose flakes. The last time I climbed T&G I climbed the corner because it looked like it had cleaned up so well. I stayed in the corner all the way to the top. I found this line more aesthetically pleasing, easier, and better protected than the original line of T&G. The stemming at the top is just plain wild. 10a seems like a stretch. This thing felt like pure 5.9 to me.
From: Reno, Nv
Jun 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
did this in may and was very good in the corner the crak is a little flarey and the last move before the lizard ledge was, um, committing so be ready for it. I say it was a bit harder then 5.9. And the touch and go left facing dihedral/corner looks intimidating but is really sweet so if you can lead the grade get on it.