Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Vault
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14 Carats S 
Breakfast in Bhopal S 
Chip Off the Block S 
Easy Money S 
Enola Gay T 
Ewetopia S 
Family Jewels S 
Fire It Up S 
Flight Simulator S 
Follow Me Tuolumne S 
Gem, The S 
Handyman T 
Holiday In Cambodia S 
Illusions S 
Jewel Of The Wild S 
Lucy in the Sky S 
Ministry of the Almighty Crimp S 
My Testosterone Poisoned Friend S 
Pocket Change S 
Potato Chipper S 
Precious Stone S 
Pubic Zirconium S 
Smoldering Horse Flesh S 
Sonic Youth S 
Splitting the Stone S 
Stinger S 
Stress Rehearsal S 
Sunrise Arete S 
Topaz S 
Tottering into Antiquity S 
Traditional Trickery T 
Tryptophan S 
Welcome to Yosemite T 
What's the Combo? S 
Unsorted Routes:

Tottering into Antiquity 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ????
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: Jason Young on May 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This route really has two variations, but they are considered different routes using the same bolts. The harder variation goes straight up on thin holds and is rated at solid 5.12. The route associated with the name "Tottering into Antiquity" goes right at the sixth bolt and attempts to maintain a contrived line that allows you to clip the bolts, but it does NOT go into the route "Chip Off the Block". These efforts alone afford the 5.10 rating. The only saving grace for this route is that the rock quality is high. You might as well just do "Chip Off the Block" though. The 5.12 variation looks HARD.

Location 

The bolt line located to the right of "Fire It Up" and to the left of "Chip Off the Block".

Protection 

Eight bolts to chain anchors.


Comments on Tottering into Antiquity Add Comment
Show which comments
By slim
Administrator
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The new Bob D. guidebook calls this a 3 star 11a, but I wouldn't agree. It is quite a bit easier and 1 to 2 stars.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 30, 2012

I agree. It looked great from the ground. Perhaps the lack of chalk up high should have clued me in. I've noticed way too many discrepancies and omissions in the Bob D. guide. Next time I won't let all the pretty pictures be the sole basis for buying a guidebook.