|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Luke to Zuke on Jul 18, 2008|
|Comments on Toto||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Jun 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
P1 -- 5.8ish. Start left of the Steve Garvey plaque (which is to the right of the toe of the buttress. For those that don't know, this route goes up the 'prominent' prow of the formation across the valley from the outhouse) , and climb face and cracks to a little ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Starting even further left in a short corner that soon meets up with the other start is possible too.
P2 -- 5.7. Climb straight up and pass some cool cracks. Belay at a big boulder with bolts in it. You should be able to actually walk down to the ground via grass ramp to your right.
P3 -- 5.7. Head up and right on vegetation/slick rock and then back left until you can safely gain the arete proper. Pass a few bolts on the arete until you reach a bolted anchor at the base of a nice, but short, crack in a corner.
P4 -- 5.9. Climb the crack/corner with perfect rock, and find another bolted anchor on the giant ledge. This ledge sits below another nice looking crack with pretty, orange, solid granite (P5)
P4 variation -- 5.10, I haven't done it, but it sounds really cool (look in the picture). Which makes it a shame that these two great pitches are side by side and not on top of each other. Head right at the bottom of the corner to reach it and then up until you are at the previously said anchor.
P5 -- 5.10. Climb up the crack that can be a little wide. Kelsey says, in his guide, that there is a bolted variation to the left. Haven't done it. Heard it's fun. The crack is really fun though. Bolted anchor on top.
P6 -- 5.9ish. Optional to get you on the summit. Walk across the vegetation being careful not to knock down rocks. You can head up wherever looks fun/safe. I'm not sure where it actually goes. We climbed two diagonal running cracks (one for hands and one for feet) around the corner to easier ground. This was fun.
Descent -- Rap the route until you can walk down the grass ramp. Random rap anchors are everywhere. Off the route and on.
From: CO / NM
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
|If you like crack climbing, pitch 4 and 5 are great. The variation to pitch four on the right is a burly offwidth too. This makes for a great day climbing.|
By Jason Moncrieff
Jul 9, 2011
This route is one of the most popular and classic routes within Hatchers Pass. Upper 2 pitches are the best, and are rated 5.10. Lower pitches are 5.8ish.
There are two other pitches near the upper pitches. Bestiality is a wicked short offwidth to the right. (bring one or 2 #5's). To the left, there is a 5.10 bolted line.
By Richard Shore
Jun 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
|Brian's description above is spot on. The route is equipped with bolted rap anchors set for a single 60M rope. The last few splitter pitches are short but excellent! Rack I'd bring next time - 1/2 set nuts, single set of cams to 4", doubles 0.5 & 0.75 camalot for the 5.9+ 4th pitch corner.|
Jun 13, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
|Pitch 5 has a right variation that is not listed in the guide or here online. After climbing the short perfect corner or the OW move right. After moving right look hard for a strange and hard to find bolt. After clipping the strange bolt step into the void while using hard to see holds. Climb into a crack system and belay at the top of the crack climb. This pitch is fun if you don't feel like climbing your way up the 5.10. I think this pitch is 5.9.|
By Bill Price
Aug 3, 2014
|Tim Cox, Nick Graeser and I started via True Grit 5.10a, after deciding we did not have gear for Festoon. They don't own any stoppers and I did not bring any gear to Alaska. We did Tic Tok 5.8 and the true first pitch couple days previous. Wandered up easy rock to top of second pitch from top of True Grit. 3rd pitch long but easy. 4th super fun crack/corner, too short! 5th steep fist/offwidth/wide hands crack/corner, but also short. Traversed way down right around corner/arete to start 6th. Climbed up left of small roof through lichen encrusted crack/loose blocks to fixed pin below roof. Big holds at roof enable an easy clip of newer bolt above, then super fun moves over roof and above past another fixed pin to another newer bolt. From here I could see the summit, but there were no more bolts, only a thin seam about 15 feet above and a fixed sling on a loose looking block another 15 feet above that near the summit. The climbing looked easy, but the rock was super encrusted with lichen and moss and slightly damp due to typical Alaska weather. Not having any small stoppers for the thin seam above cinched my decision to retreat. Tim tr'd up to the high point and agreed retreat was best. Overall a great alpine Alaskan adventure route, but someday the route will fall to the boulder field below, as just left of the route has already.|