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 ADVANCED
Main Cliff - Right
Select Route:
Barefoot Beginning T 
Bollard Buttress T 
Bollard Buttress Direct T 
Chute, The T 
End, The T 
Spirochaete T 
Springboard T 
Terminal Buttress T 
Totenstarre T 

Totenstarre 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Euan Cameron, Neil Stewart, June 1989
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 10, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Totenstarre Topo

Description 

1. Climb the wall to the right of the corner up to the overlap. Pull over the overlap, and continue on the slab above using small holds. Belay at the right of the large ledge.

2. Start behind a tree and climb up the corner, until possible to move left into the middle of the steep wall. Make hard crimpy moves up the steep wall until near the top when you can move right to an in situ peg runner. After the peg continue with a couple more tricky moves on a left facing flake.

Once your feet are on the slab above the overhanging wall the climbing eases - finish up the slab.


Location 

Located on the wall right of Terminal Buttress.


Protection 

Trad Gear, one fixed pin on 2nd pitch.



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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 10, 2007

In the latest guide to the area this route is wrongly described as two separate climbs. The first pitch is called Crash Test Dummies, and the 2nd is given a variation to the nearby The Duel. A major portion of The Duel fell down so that route doesn't exist anymore.