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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Stannard, 1971
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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P1: Climb the low angle buttress to reach the shuts under the large obvious Totem roof (5.5).

P2: From the belay, head up and left passing several pitons to reach the crack in the roof. Back up the pins as good as possible, but use caution not to steal your key handholds with gear. Pull the roof(crux), to gain a stance. Anchors are up and to the left. (30 ft).

P3: This is a great pitch, it's even worth aiding the roof to do this long pitch. From the belay, head straight up the buttress, passing several small overhangs with great gear and wonderful moves. (150 ft)


Locate the large cave on the south end and head east toward Candy Corner and Ye Gods. This will be the first buttress that you come to.


Standard Seneca Rack, shuts at top of pitch 1 and pitch 2.

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