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South End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Different School of Thought T 
Birds of Prey T 
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 
Candy Corner T 
Drop Zone T 
Ecstasy T 
Ecstasy Junior T 
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 
LSD Direct T 
Muscle Beach T 
Simple J Malarky T 
Sixth Sense T 
Skyline Traverse T 
Southwest Buttress Variation T 
Spinnaker S 
Sunshine T 
Superstition T 
T & T T 
Tony's Nightmare T 
Totem T 
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Stannard, 1971
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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P1: Climb the low angle buttress to reach the shuts under the large obvious Totem roof (5.5).

P2: From the belay, head up and left passing several pitons to reach the crack in the roof. Back up the pins as good as possible, but use caution not to steal your key handholds with gear. Pull the roof(crux), to gain a stance. Anchors are up and to the left. (30 ft).

P3: This is a great pitch, it's even worth aiding the roof to do this long pitch. From the belay, head straight up the buttress, passing several small overhangs with great gear and wonderful moves. (150 ft)


Locate the large cave on the south end and head east toward Candy Corner and Ye Gods. This will be the first buttress that you come to.


Standard Seneca Rack, shuts at top of pitch 1 and pitch 2.

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By Alex Mandrila
From: Ypsilanti, Michigan
Sep 16, 2014

The first pitch (5.5) makes a great first lead or toprope for new climbers. Also, I confused the glue-ins at the top as the anchors for this route. There are shuts slightly to the left.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

It's almost like there should be a second entry for this route for the P1 that everyone does and then the rest of the route.

The glue-ins at the end of P1 are for this route. You can use the cold-shuts to the left if you want to rig a TR, but the glue-ins are the anchors to continue up.

Pulling the crux roof is a height-related move...harder to get up and stick the bomber hand-jam if you're short because you need to get your feet up first. You can back up the pin in the roof crack with a bomber C3 right next to the pin (there are two pins total in this section).

The third pitch cruises up some 5.7/8 rock through a series of right-leaning corners and little overhangs. Good exposure and fun moves. There is a final overhang to pull (5.7ish) before it backs off to 5.4/5 climbing to the top (the 4th pitch). Just below this overhang is another set of cold-shuts that are the anchors for the 3rd pitch. You can descend from these shuts to the set above the overhang and then rap to the ground.

Topping out the route makes for a long pitch from the anchor above the crux overhang and puts you in an interesting no-mans land so be prepared to scramble up to the Luncheon Ledge area. Be careful of loose rock at the top.

Overall it's an interesting climb that will get you away from anyone else on a busy weekend. At roughly 285ft in length it's one of the longest lines at Seneca behind Conn's East (~350ft), Prune (~310ft) and Pleasant Overhangs (~295ft).
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