|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||John Stannard, 1971|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008|
|Comments on Totem||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Alex Mandrila
From: Ypsilanti, Michigan
Sep 16, 2014
|The first pitch (5.5) makes a great first lead or toprope for new climbers. Also, I confused the glue-ins at the top as the anchors for this route. There are shuts slightly to the left.|
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
It's almost like there should be a second entry for this route for the P1 that everyone does and then the rest of the route.
The glue-ins at the end of P1 are for this route. You can use the cold-shuts to the left if you want to rig a TR, but the glue-ins are the anchors to continue up.
Pulling the crux roof is a height-related move...harder to get up and stick the bomber hand-jam if you're short because you need to get your feet up first. You can back up the pin in the roof crack with a bomber C3 right next to the pin (there are two pins total in this section).
The third pitch cruises up some 5.7/8 rock through a series of right-leaning corners and little overhangs. Good exposure and fun moves. There is a final overhang to pull (5.7ish) before it backs off to 5.4/5 climbing to the top (the 4th pitch). Just below this overhang is another set of cold-shuts that are the anchors for the 3rd pitch. You can descend from these shuts to the set above the overhang and then rap to the ground.
Topping out the route makes for a long pitch from the anchor above the crux overhang and puts you in an interesting no-mans land so be prepared to scramble up to the Luncheon Ledge area. Be careful of loose rock at the top.
Overall it's an interesting climb that will get you away from anyone else on a busy weekend. At roughly 285ft in length it's one of the longest lines at Seneca behind Conn's East (~350ft), Prune (~310ft) and Pleasant Overhangs (~295ft).