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 ADVANCED
Rico Suave Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Good Old Days, The T 
Grit and Bear It S 
Not on the First Date S 
Nude Brute S 
Out of the Bag S 
Pockets of Resistance S 
Preparation H S 
Rico Sauve S 
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey) T 
Second Thoughts T 
Totally Tammy S 

Totally Tammy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,370
Submitted By: furrymurry on Sep 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Jeff on the start to Totally Tammy.

Description 

Pick your line and dance up the less-than-vertical face on thin moves.

Location 

Around the corner to the left from Rico Suave on the face with the same aspect, i.e. the face adjacent to Grit and Bear it.

Protection 

5 bolts + anchors


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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Apr 7, 2008

Great climb with weird bolt locations.
By Dave West
From: Roanoke, VA
Feb 4, 2009

This thing was originally given 5.8, felt pretty stiff for a 5.8!
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Sep 11, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree Jeff, you really have to put in some extra distance just to clip the bolts. An awkward lead, but a fun TR.
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Oct 17, 2013

I found a bunch of poorly patched bolt holes in the natural climbing line. Which is of course 5-10 feet to the right of the bolts. If you TR it and use a directional, use the 3rd bolt as lower ones pull you off the moves.
By Brad Leneis
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This would be an intense lead for a budding 5.10 climber, especially on a warm day -- it features some insecure moves with bolts at the heels.