||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Don Serl and Erin McGann, 1987|
|Page Views: ||1|
|Submitted By: ||Dru on Mar 19, 2009|
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This route was originally mistaken for the west buttress of the south peak during bad weather. Climb the rib right of (across the gully) from Mars Western until it flattens off after a few pitches. Cross the gully leftwards and pick up the major basalt dyke trending up and left; climb this, crossing the line of Mars Western, to the crest of the West Buttress of the South Peak and follow that route to the summit of the south peak.
Approach via Daiphy Lake and climb the rightmost minor rib on the southwest face of the south peak. Descend the south ridge of the south peak as for the west buttress descent.
Light rack to 3"