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Totally Jacked 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Deidre Burton
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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This shot was taken by a climber named Markguycan ...

Description 

Great climbing through pumpy, overhung rock. Watch the right handed gaston sidepull after the second bolt (crux)! Great lead, and as with all Jacks climbs, well protected.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors.



Photos of Totally Jacked Slideshow Add Photo
Almost through the crux of Totally Jacked for the RP on my second try.  Photo by David Arthur Sampson.
Almost through the crux of Totally Jacked for the ...
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 13, 2008

Foiled lead after two bolts. Thankfully a few great guys (Eric from Tucson & JC from Albuquerque) came to my rescue. We took it by siege! JC you're my hero!!

Tough climb. Reachy pockets & no gaston needed best I can tell. The crux of the route seems to be between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. After which the angle eases a bit and the climbing isn't quite so pumpy.

Makes a girl like me hope she can link her TR knowledge into an actual lead.

By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really fun pulling on pretty sinker pockets. This is definitely easier if you're tall. I would say that 12b is an overestimation of the difficulty. Felt like mostly eleven pulling into V3 crux up into easier eleven territory. Probably more like 11d? Whatever the grade it is a fun climb!