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Totally Flaked 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Kai Segrud on Sep 27, 2008  with updates from BBQ

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Cruising the beginning of Totally Flaked, a very r...


Climb a detached pillar to get to a layback crack. This used to be rated 5.9 but has since been extended. The old 5.9 anchors do not exist anymore!

This route started out as a 5.9 layback crack climb when it was originally bolted. Later, it did get extended and became a 5.10+ climb around 2010. About a year later the developer decided to chop the extension and installed new stainless steel anchors at the position of the original anchors. Most locals agree that the climb is 5.9, but some folks think a 5.10- might be a more accurate grade.


About a dozen draws now.

Photos of Totally Flaked Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Satermo sending
Satermo sending
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting totally pumped, and there is more to go!
Getting totally pumped, and there is more to go!
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux is coming up after a brief rest.
The crux is coming up after a brief rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Totally Flaked, 5.9+ Headshop Wall. Mohican. Spear...
Totally Flaked, 5.9+ Headshop Wall. Mohican. Spear...
Rock Climbing Photo: Totally Flaked, 5.9+  A must do canyon classic!
Totally Flaked, 5.9+ A must do canyon classic!
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle climbing
Kyle climbing

Comments on Totally Flaked Add Comment
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By Glenn Foltz
Jun 27, 2010

Wow was I shocked when I had a heck of a time finishing this "5.9"... Glad to see that the route was extended from what it was in the old guide.
By R.Walters
Jun 28, 2010

I pulled a head-sized block off near the top of this puppy a few weeks ago at an undercling. ?feels a tad harder than 10b now IMO. Quality extension otherwise.
By Mikel Cronin
Jul 1, 2010

Does the spot where the block was need cleaning. I was also wondering if the anchors need moving. I have heard that they can be hard to clip. Any suggestions would be great.
By R.Walters
Jul 2, 2010

Hey Mike, I suppose it could use a bit of scrubbing as there was a some dirt behind it. I would have but didn't have a brush. Everything else looked solid.

Anchors might be tough to clip for shorter folks. Maybe a few more chain links would make it easier rather than having to re-drill? Hope summer is treating you well.
By Glenn Foltz
Jul 3, 2010

I wondered if that might not be a recent "improvement"! I wiped the roots off the wall where the block was... didn't have a brush so its not immaculate. I don't think that anything else will flake off for another eon or two. I am not all about making anything easier, but it might be nice to move the anchors to where the last bolt is... IMHO it would keep the route a consistent 9+ish instead of having a 10d finish to a 9+ route.
Jun 9, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I just climbed this route a few days ago. I believe the original developer has chopped the extension and replaced the anchors back in their original spot. I miss the extension, however, it could be said that having the anchors where they are now preserves the original character of the route. AWESOME ROUTE! Killer layback sequence! A rarity for the black hills. DO THIS ROUTE!
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 10, 2011

Yes the anchors were dropped back to the original location. I felt the route lost cool factor for more diffculty. Back to 9+. Brent you should say a few words about it.

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