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Totally Flaked 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 808
Submitted By: Kai Segrud on Sep 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Kyle climbing

Description 

Climb a detached pillar to get to a layback crack. This used to be rated 5.9 but has since been extended. The old 5.9 anchors do not exist anymore!

Protection 

About a dozen draws now.


Photos of Totally Flaked Slideshow Add Photo
Totally Flaked, 5.9+  A must do canyon classic!
Totally Flaked, 5.9+ A must do canyon classic!
Cruising the beginning of Totally Flaked, a very r...
Cruising the beginning of Totally Flaked, a very r...
Totally Flaked, 5.9+ Headshop Wall. Mohican. Spear...
Totally Flaked, 5.9+ Headshop Wall. Mohican. Spear...
Getting totally pumped, and there is more to go!
Getting totally pumped, and there is more to go!
The crux is coming up after a brief rest.
The crux is coming up after a brief rest.
Satermo sending
Satermo sending

Comments on Totally Flaked Add Comment
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By Glenn Foltz
Jun 27, 2010

Wow was I shocked when I had a heck of a time finishing this "5.9"... Glad to see that the route was extended from what it was in the old guide.
By R.Walters
Jun 28, 2010

I pulled a head-sized block off near the top of this puppy a few weeks ago at an undercling. ?feels a tad harder than 10b now IMO. Quality extension otherwise.
By Mikel Cronin
Jul 1, 2010

Reggie
Does the spot where the block was need cleaning. I was also wondering if the anchors need moving. I have heard that they can be hard to clip. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks
Mike
By R.Walters
Jul 2, 2010

Hey Mike, I suppose it could use a bit of scrubbing as there was a some dirt behind it. I would have but didn't have a brush. Everything else looked solid.

Anchors might be tough to clip for shorter folks. Maybe a few more chain links would make it easier rather than having to re-drill? Hope summer is treating you well.
By Glenn Foltz
Jul 3, 2010

I wondered if that might not be a recent "improvement"! I wiped the roots off the wall where the block was... didn't have a brush so its not immaculate. I don't think that anything else will flake off for another eon or two. I am not all about making anything easier, but it might be nice to move the anchors to where the last bolt is... IMHO it would keep the route a consistent 9+ish instead of having a 10d finish to a 9+ route.
By B. Climbin'
Jun 9, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I just climbed this route a few days ago. I believe the original developer has chopped the extension and replaced the anchors back in their original spot. I miss the extension, however, it could be said that having the anchors where they are now preserves the original character of the route. AWESOME ROUTE! Killer layback sequence! A rarity for the black hills. DO THIS ROUTE!
By Mikel Cronin
Jun 10, 2011

Yes the anchors were dropped back to the original location. I felt the route lost cool factor for more diffculty. Back to 9+. Brent you should say a few words about it.
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