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Three O'clock Rock
Routes Sorted
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20th Century Clock S 
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Penny Lane T 
Pucker Up S 
Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 
Rash, The T 
Silent Running T 
Till Broad Daylight T 
Total Soul T 
Under the Bored Walk S 

Total Soul 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Matt Perkins, David Whitelaw (1999)
Season: May - November
Page Views: 4,511
Submitted By: MattPerkins on Aug 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Miho U on pitch 4 of Total Soul (10b).

Description 

Total Soul is an eight pitch route on the North Buttress of Three O'Clock Rock. This is slab climbing, though with a remarkable variation to it as the climb follows a dike for two pitches, passes several interesting overlaps along the way, and has the rare distinction of being one of the routes that actually "tops out" on Three O'Clock Rock.

The difficult climbing is mostly bolt protected but the leader must carry and know how to use gear. Gear is particularly helpful for the long crack section on P4 (finger-tip-sized stoppers and up to a wide-hands cam size). It also may be helpful to place a piece or two on P2. See the attached topo for bolt counts per pitch.

Location 

From the base of Silent Running, head left and uphill from the point where the hiking trail reaches the rock. A few hundred yards later, the base of the climb is marked by a bolt on the right wall, maybe fifty feet below where the bushes give way to a rock chimney/gully system that forms the deep cleft between the North Buttress and the South Buttress.

Chains are in place at all the belays so you can rappel the route. The top two pitches are more easily rappelled by an alternate route in the trees on the right (north), for a more vertically oriented rappel.

The first of these two raps is from a set of slings on a medium sized tree, thirty to fifty feet right of where the route tops out. The second, less than a half rope below, has a chain anchor that is often overlooked, so there are slings on a large tree nearby. When you reach the anchor at the top of P2, you can do one rap to the ground with two 60-m ropes if you head towards the gully.

Protection 

Gear to 2" and ten or eleven draws. Hoard your #1 Camalot until nearing the end of pitch 4 or bring an extra.


Photos of Total Soul Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Whitelaw on pitch 6 of Total Soul, the "...
David Whitelaw on pitch 6 of Total Soul, the "...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from the base of Total Soul
BETA PHOTO: Taken from the base of Total Soul
Rock Climbing Photo: Maybe the 2nd or 3rd Pitch. Love the quartz, event...
Maybe the 2nd or 3rd Pitch. Love the quartz, event...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Perkin's topo of Total Soul and Silent Runnin...
BETA PHOTO: Matt Perkin's topo of Total Soul and Silent Runnin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie on Total Soul
Charlie on Total Soul

Comments on Total Soul Add Comment
Show which comments
By cspieker
Sep 7, 2007

Fun route! Very safe for a 10- slab leader.

CD Guide for Darrington available here

Online topo for selected 3 O'Clock Rock climbs here
By Jesse Davidson
From: san diego, ca
May 4, 2008

a friend and I climbed this route, swinging leads, with no gear except quickdraws and I don't remember desperately wishing that we had any.
By SkiMD
Sep 13, 2009

Don't let the approach beta above fool you - the base of 3 O'Clock Rock is no more than a 20 minute hike from the parking lot. That being said, this route is a lot of fun and is the most well-bolted slab climb I have ever been on. Highly recommended.
By Aawait
Jun 9, 2013

Awesome climb, very fun and interesting moves the whole way. I agree with the above comments that this climb is safe and requires little gear. Between my partner and I we probably placed 6 pieces of pro over all 8 pitches. Its still worthwhile to bring those light small cams. We did the 5.11a variation to pitch 5 (you go straight up, following the bolts veering up and right then reconnecting with the standard line) and I recommend it!
By the professor
Jul 10, 2013

Hmmm. We did the first 3 the other day (too hot to continue so we bailed; in fact Darrington Clear Creek station measured 90.9 degrees).

P1 is a dirty mess. P2 started dirty but got interesting (5.9) in a hurry. It's got four bolts in 150 feet. We were very happy to put in four cams in between! P3 also has four bolts and no cracks, but it's 5.7. Because we rapped from there I'll postpone an overall assessment until we can return for the entire adventure.
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 10, 2013

Definitly go for the superfly variation. Best pitch on a already awesome route.
By David Blaszka
Sep 9, 2015

I just went this Labor Day. Pretty good, but the route is fairly wet, making it much harder. If the sun keeps up it should be good in a week.
By Jeffrey Joseph
May 17, 2016

Fantastic slab climb. Would really hate to climb this even if the route was a little damp. Well protected but also run-out in some parts. Placed 6-7 pieces of gear on the whole route; there wasn't a lot of places to put gear in on the hardest slab portions. Ditch the nuts and hexes. Placed a 0/1 Master Cam thru #1 Cam. Maybe bring a #2 just in case. Brought 5 regular quickdraws and 7 alpine draws of various length.

P1-3 pretty low angle

P4 - The $$$ crack was not so money. It had some substantial grass, so it was a little hard to place gear. Only placed 2 pieces of gear and it was fine at the end of the day.

P5-7 angle steepens up substantially compared to the first 4!

P8 - Heartbreaker, but so awesome. My favorite pitch on the route. Some of the hardest and steepest friction/slab moves saved for the last pitch, but very well protected! Set up an anchor on a thick, alive tree!

Raps were fairly straight forward. Only thing is that the first rap (use one rope) there is some serious foliage that you have to get through to get to the P7 anchors.

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