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Total Seawash Calypso 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Jon Nelson, Larry Kemp
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 31, 2008
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Description 

This is a somewhat short but very engaging edging problem. A crux right off the ledge surmounting the first bulge is guaranteed to get your attention. The rest of the climb is sustained crimping and edging with another hard section near the top.


Location 

From where the trail continues to Steel Monkey, head right onto a grassy ledge. Use caution: the drop from this ledge would be fatal. The climb starts under an obvious scooped overhang from a comfortable but unprotected belay stance. A 60m rope descends.


Protection 

Bolts. The anchor consists of many old slings and pieces of rope around a tree; these should probably be viewed with suspicion.

A stick clip is necessary as there is no belay anchor on the ledge; a lead fall without pre-clipping could result in a (probable) fatal fall from the ledge. One should opt to clip the second bolt, as the first will create extreme rope drag.



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By dscramer
Dec 31, 2008

I think there might be a hangerless 1/4" bolt(or two) on the left side of the ledge. When originally climbed there was a large flake at the base that made the first clip and the start of the traverse really easy. Later some rascals trundled it along with a bunch of other rocks in the area. As a result the ledge has become much smaller than it was when the routes were first climbed. Resist the urge to trundle. Seawash west to Steel Monkey is a great place to climb in cold weather (if the sun is shining). Seawash was first climbed in the low 30s with snow all around. The winds were howling a few feet away from the rock but the person actually climbing was virtually wind free.