Total Recall 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Gordon Douglass and Eric Stroud |
| Submitted By: | KipHenrie on Nov 5, 2007 |
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Description The first crux is at the first semi blank section and very fun. The last blank section to the top is the REAL crux. You get a huge rest then clip the last bolt then you get to do a v3-v4 boulder problem to a sloper. Very cool.
Location 4th route from the right.
Protection 6 bolts to chains. Well protected.
By Bad Sock Puppet
From: Utah
May 12, 2012
rating: 5.11d
| Surprisingly cool route!! It's definitely a solid 5.11 but not a stout .11d by any means:
- High 1st bolt but easy climbing (easy 5.10 climbing)
- 1st to 2nd bolt: deep slot pockets that are bomber
- 2nd to 3rd bolt: first crux (.11c/d) section with a sick sequence!
- 3rd to 4th bolt: delicate climbing that eases up as you mantle the shelf
- 4th to 5th bolt: excellent holds that lead to a nice left-facing, crescent-shaped sidepull
- 5th bolt: Pumped? No worries, down climb to shelf to shake out!
- 5th to 6th bolt: second crux (.11d), "blank" section, positive crimps, throw right to sloping "rail-type" hold just below the 6th bolt and match
- 6th bolt to chains: clip 6th bolt quickly, high feet, throw for second shelf, mantle, clip chains.
Felt just a tad softer than Division 5.11d but only because it has a shelf to rest on. Clean route & now all chalked up for y'all! |
By user id
May 12, 2012
| thanks for the spray by spray, i mean play by play. |
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