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 ADVANCED
The White Wall
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Total Recall 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,885
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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In the midst of a lot of hard moves

Description 

Hard and reachy with few or no intermediates. I've heard it's quality though.

Location 

First route on the right of the White Wall.

Protection 

Lots of bolts to chains.


Photos of Total Recall Slideshow Add Photo
Thin and sequential moves.  Crux is looming.
Thin and sequential moves. Crux is looming.
Nice route
Nice route

Comments on Total Recall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 16, 2014
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 14, 2007

After a key undercling broke, most people say solid 13c.
By Trish Houghtaling
From: Flagstaff, Az
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Amazing route with a variety of ways to do the upper move where the hold broke- a brilliant endurance route! I would say a solid 13b.
By Chris Tatum
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 25, 2009

All bolts replaced 4-24-09 except one anchor bolt because a lack of tools. Will be revisited.
By KyleEdmondson
Jun 17, 2009

Consensus on the grade is 13b. However, if you avoid the drilled pocket between the 8th and 9th bolts and climb straight up the thin seam, it does go. I believe it is 14a, but would like to hear feedback if someone else tries it this way. However, just because it has been done without the drilled hold, please do not fill it in, as the route is much more fun with the pocket.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Generally speaking, I think its extremely unlikely that eliminating a single hold would change the grade by 3 letters.
By KyleEdmondson
Jun 18, 2009

I think it does. The route is an endurance 13b with no move harder than v4. Removing the hold adds a v9 to the top, with no good rest.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 18, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Well, you've done it, I haven't so I'm talkin outta my a$$. How does it compare to the other 5.14s you've done?
By KyleEdmondson
Jun 18, 2009

I've only done two others, and it is between the two in my opinion, and based on the time I spent on it. However, I know my ability to rate at this grade is shaky at best, so I would like to hear what other people who have tried it think. Consider the grade simply a first proposal.
By hamlincheese
Aug 19, 2010

The thing is, you don't have to climb straight up the thin seam to make this go natural. The pocket was drilled just behind a 4 finger 3/4 pad side pull crimp. When you grab the pocket you don't even realize the hold is there because it becomes the lip of the pocket. On further inspection you can see that the pocket is recessed behind this edge. The boulder problem is probably only v5ish if you use the crimp and the route grade is 13cish. I just don't know why it was drilled in the first place.
By Brayne Varner
From: Eureka, Ca
Nov 19, 2011

Leo Henson FA?
By Marcus St Jolie
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 16, 2014

underclingy thingy near second bolt appears to be glued on. eh?!?!