Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Axis of Power S 
Bats in the Belfry S 
Blackened S 
Bone Crusher S 
Bull in a China Shop S 
Cowgirl Diplomacy S 
Cry Baby S 
Evil Offspring S 
Evil Surprise  S 
Fluffy S 
Friendly Fire S 
Genesis S 
Genocide S 
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed S 
Got Gingko S 
Hand Job S 
Haul of Flame S 
Heart Shaped Box S 
Heart Shaped Drill S 
Honed Improvement S 
Hooked On Pockets S 
Kindest Cut S 
Kolaric Energy S 
Last Episode S 
Limestone Cowgirl S 
Mighty Morphin S 
Pocket Runt S 
Pockets of Resistance S 
Power Monger S 
Power Trip S 
Pretty Pasties S 
Razor Burn S 
Sacrificial Lizard S 
Sandman S 
Shortest Straw S 
State of Panic S 
Swiss Arete S 
System in Ruins S 
Take Your Pick S 
Tales From the Grypt S 
Thin Thin, The S 
This Old Route S 
Total Lack of Jump S 
Trick Mechanics S 
Twist of Cain S 
Twisted Sister S 
Under Attack S 
Unpopular Mechanics S 
Wind Chill S 
Zone of Exclusion S 

Total Lack of Jump 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Jul 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start off a large boulder on a nice crimp sidepull. From here make long reaches between chipped pockets, to obtain a resting jug and the third bolt. From here the route stays sustained on thin holds to the anchors.

While this route offers good climbing, the entire bottom is almost all manufactured.

Location 

Towards the middle of mainwall. Three routes to the right of Mighty Morphin. Between Crybaby and The Thin Thin.

Protection 

5? Bolts to Anchors. Stickclip


Comments on Total Lack of Jump Add Comment
Show which comments
By Pablo-Roberts
From: Prescott, Arizona
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This comment goes for alot of routes at Jacks actually, this route on here gets 2 starts, but its one of the coolest dyno sport climbs I've done. Three consecutive big deadpoints/lunges to good then worsening holds. The top stays on you as well. I thought it would be over after the dynos and fell on the top section.

Beware of MP stars...this thing is well worth a try or two.
By Luke Bertelsen
Mar 7, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Pablo, don't get me wrong this route is pretty fun, but the dynos are just long moves and not actual dynos, and the climb is short. Let's be real here. It's two stars, maybe three at a stretch.

Still TOTALLY worth doing.
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Mar 8, 2016

While I agree that this climb is totally worth doing and is comparable to many other climbs on Main Wall, there is no way it is anywhere close to four stars. I can only think of one heavily manufactured (but barely noticeable) sport climb in the US that I would give four stars to. This thing is so blatantly and heavily manufactured that although the climbing is fun it is only one star from me. That is why Jack's canyon classics like Haul of Flame and Unpopular Mechanics only get two stars from me.

If you liked this route, check out Wild Breed on Swiss Wall.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!