Total Eclipse 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 155 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/27/07 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on May 28, 2007 |
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Andrew Matthews on Total Eclipse.
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Description Total Eclipse is another multi-pitch sport route in Sport Land. It climbs the right side of the east face in two pitches of fun, varied climbing.
Start in the same place as for Tag Team, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.
P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.
P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall. Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt. Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.
Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.
Location In Sport Land, just right of Tag Team. Eds. The beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.
Protection P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.
| Comments on Total Eclipse |
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By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 11, 2007
| The first pitch is nice and makes you think.
The second pitch is fabulous! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| A good route that can also be protected trad. Take a rack if you like to place gear. The runouts will be fairly mild. |
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2007
rating: 5.9+
| I sincerely appreciate all the work that went into cleaning this route, but there really isn't a need for bolts on this climb. Bring a light rack and a 60m rope and you can send this in one nice long pitch. Felt like a 5.8/5.9 at Lumpy Ridge. Two 60's for the rap, maybe two 50's would reach not totally sure. |
By Luke Zuke
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 20, 2007
| Last week I met Ron at this crag, and I must say it was a pleasure. He was incredibly nice and offered detailed info on his new routes.
Regardless of your stance on "ethics" of climbing and what gear you choose to use when you climb, Ron deserves thanks for putting up these routes. He was covered in dirt the day we met and his shins looked pretty destroyed from all his work. I can't say that many climbers I've met in Boulder would work so hard.
I've now climbed a lot of the routes here and they're great. Save your ethics and politicking for next year's election. Thanks, Ron. |
By Bruce Pech
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| "Totally clips" -- a Robbins caliber pun. Yes, it can be climbed with gear. It's also a pleasant sport climb. Does it really matter? |
By Puscfier69
May 23, 2008
| Thanks to everyone for all the hard work and $$$ for equipping the routes. I had a blast climbing up there and will be back soon. Peace. |
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Aug 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a
| Surprised it was bolted as recently as it is - very clean and overall fun route. |
By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| I can't really comment on the grade of this route, because I don't even think I was on it. I have no idea how I ended up doing this, but I started at the slab for Total Eclipse, at the roof ended up going straight over at the Tag Team one move wonder .10d (which I thought was .10c) and then ended up at the anchors for Toe The Line...still a fun climb though! Haha |
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