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Sport Land
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Clean Sweep 
Face Off 
Generous Donation 
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Nick Of Time 
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Stayin' Alive 
Tag Team 
Toe The Line 
Total Eclipse 

Total Eclipse 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/27/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,218
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 28, 2007
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Andrew Matthews on Total Eclipse.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Total Eclipse is another multi-pitch sport route in Sport Land. It climbs the right side of the east face in two pitches of fun, varied climbing.

Start in the same place as for Tag Team, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.

P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.

P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall. Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt. Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.

Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.


Location 

In Sport Land, just right of Tag Team. Eds. The beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.


Protection 

P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.



Photos of Total Eclipse Slideshow Add Photo
Passing the roof.
Passing the roof.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 14, 2013
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 11, 2007

The first pitch is nice and makes you think.
The second pitch is fabulous!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

A good route that can also be protected trad. Take a rack if you like to place gear. The runouts will be fairly mild.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I sincerely appreciate all the work that went into cleaning this route, but there really isn't a need for bolts on this climb. Bring a light rack and a 60m rope and you can send this in one nice long pitch. Felt like a 5.8/5.9 at Lumpy Ridge. Two 60's for the rap, maybe two 50's would reach not totally sure.

By Luke Zuke
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 20, 2007

Last week I met Ron at this crag, and I must say it was a pleasure. He was incredibly nice and offered detailed info on his new routes.

Regardless of your stance on "ethics" of climbing and what gear you choose to use when you climb, Ron deserves thanks for putting up these routes. He was covered in dirt the day we met and his shins looked pretty destroyed from all his work. I can't say that many climbers I've met in Boulder would work so hard.

I've now climbed a lot of the routes here and they're great. Save your ethics and politicking for next year's election. Thanks, Ron.

By Bruce Pech
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

"Totally clips" -- a Robbins caliber pun. Yes, it can be climbed with gear. It's also a pleasant sport climb. Does it really matter?

By rob coppolillo
Apr 29, 2008

Maybe worth a read:
www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-china-doll-segal

Thanks to the first ascensionists for the hard work and good routes up at Tonnere. Obviously a bunch of time, effort, and dough spent up there.

By Puscfier69
May 23, 2008

Thanks to everyone for all the hard work and $$$ for equipping the routes. I had a blast climbing up there and will be back soon. Peace.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Aug 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Surprised it was bolted as recently as it is - very clean and overall fun route.

By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I can't really comment on the grade of this route, because I don't even think I was on it. I have no idea how I ended up doing this, but I started at the slab for Total Eclipse, at the roof ended up going straight over at the Tag Team one move wonder .10d (which I thought was .10c) and then ended up at the anchors for Toe The Line...still a fun climb though! Haha

By jamandbees
Jul 14, 2013

I led the first pitch. Totally believe the 5.9 rating. It was fantastic, really enjoyable set of gyrations needed to get around on it.

I believe I moved a little far left, clipped into a bolt from Tag Team and went under the roof before moving right back onto the route. If you're interested in an exciting little variation, that one's totally worthwhile.