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Up onto the 2nd pitch slab at the 5.9+++ friction ...
Tostadas Comquesta is likely the easiest of the climbs on the main portion of Questa Dome. Still not to be taken lightly, the crux is somewhat runout over 1/4" bolts; and there are some other tricky sections, like every climb at Questa. Some people don't like this climb too much considering that other alternative climbs at Questa are especially good. Tostadas is also more sheltered from the wind than other climbs at Questa Dome.
Pitch 1: Follow easy cracks right of the big right-leaning right facing corner on the east end of the main face. (5.6) Belay in the corner below the first stepped roof. Most will want to combine this and the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: This pitch follows clean slabs to the right of the main dihedral. Climb up to the roof, undercling and traverse right, step up to a bolt. Climb up to the bigger 2nd roof, undercling and traverse right and head up to a 2 bolt chain anchor below a steep slab. Excellent climbing with unique moves on this pitch, and the traversing might be a little scary for those who aren't used to slabs (5.9+). You can rap from here to the ground with 1 rope.
Pitch 3: Climb clean slab straight up (potential to fall onto belay), passing 2 1/4" bolts to a diagonaling seam (crux, 5.10 PG13; the bolts appear ok, but if you're scared of 30-year old bolts you won't like this part). It's a little spacey between the bolts but not bad by TP/Questa standards. When you reach the seam, small wired stoppers provide pro. Follow this seam up and right and over a bulge until it opens to a hand crack, which has a tricky short 5.10- section with another 1/4" bolt (which you can supplement with gear). Reach a stance belay with some webbing and rap rings. A variation of these last two pitches stays in the right-leaning crack and bypasses the previous belay station- this variation looks bushy.
Pitch 4: Continue up the right angling crack to a big alcove below the obvious roof. Short pitch (5.8). You can continue a little higher and find a more awkward belay if you want to, but if you keep going, you won't reach a good belay ledge without simulclimbing.
Pitch 5: Follow cracks out to the right, bypassing the big roof, until the cracks appear to end in an overhanging slot. Step left on a ledge about 15' below this slot, pull through on steep chickenheads and plates (5.8, PG13). Belay soon up ahead. Easy 5th class on big knobs to the top.
Walk off the east side. If you're thinking of downclimbing, keep walking uphill and north to get to the faint trail.
Tostadas begins just right of the obvious right facing corner near the right side of Questa Dome. It follows slabs and cracks that angle to the right from this feature.
Cams up to #4 camalot, with doubles from fingers to thin hands sizes, plus nuts.
Long runners and/or double ropes highly recommended to minimize rope drag.
Most bolts on this climb are 1/4" originals; if those scare you- bring a hand drill and upgrade them.
Wyatt with the 2nd bolt clipped on the very PG13 3...
|Comments on Tostadas Comquesta
|By David Baltz|
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Dec 6, 2009
If anyone wants to retro the original 1/4" bolts, feel free.
|By J. Albers|
Apr 13, 2010
When I did this years ago (using the old Horak topo) we climbed up and right on the second pitch, looked at the quarter inch bolts and climbed back down and followed the main dihedral above the belay. This involved climbing over a roof/bulge in the corner above the belay (probably 5.9). We then set a belay in an alcove just up and left of the beginning of the long right leaning crack (protection was good on this variation). From the alcove belay, we then stepped down and followed the crack up and right. I thought this crack was full on 5.10+ ; the crack was nice, but the feet were a little insecure because of all the lichen, though nothing a little traffic wouldn't fix. Overall, I thought it was a pretty nice route.
|By Paul Davidson|
Apr 13, 2010
I seem to recall the seam being a bit gritty toward the top and having to dig a placement or two out of grass. This was probably around 83 though so it's probably been cleaned up since then. Seemed like a bit of a tricky lead, classic rounded seam, bit run out ? Not for a 5.9 leader ? Of course, only reason for doing this is if Q of B is already taken (no offense Dave, it's just that QofB is sooo good.)
BTW - Paul's topo calls this out as Tostadas Comquesta
|By J. Albers|
Apr 13, 2010
Paul, I believe your recollection is correct. That right leaning crack was definitely of the rounded/flaring type. Protection was adequate, but as with most flaring cracks, tricky to get the gear just right. As you say, I probably wouldn't put a 5.9 leader on this pitch.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 13, 2010
Changed the route's name in my description, as you suggest, though of course we should go with whatever Dave says.
I thought p2 (the undercling traverse) and p3 (the bolted slab to the right angling crack) were the best pitches on the climb, though I haven't tried staying in the corner for these 2 pitches. The bolted slab p3 isn't too scary (but Rumsey led it, not me; and he was completely unfazed by it and hiked it like it was 5.7). I'll try to get back with someone to upgrade the bolts this summer, but I'll admit I have other things to do at Questa that are of higher priority so don't count on it.
This climb's a little bit easier than QoB, but less classic since it's less sustained with a lot of 5.8 and because QoB goes right up the proudest line. Probably the easiest line on the main part of Questa Dome, and doesn't have a scary pitch like that last one on Jonny Questa. (Worth doing? Certainly! But folks sketched by the 1/4"ers would be better off starting on QoB.)
|By tim naylor|
Nov 14, 2010
i think pitch three (of this description) is dangerous. falling onto belay...this section seemed more like 10+ to me, not much of a slab climber. I think it is a good call to go around or retro bolt to make safer. after the first bolt it looked like a bolt ladder to thin crack. We bailed.