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 ADVANCED
Torture Chamber
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack in Groove T,TR 
Cracky Face TR 
Dos Gorditos T,TR 
Final Finger TR 
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 
Left of Roof -- Three Variations 
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 
Roofus, The T,S,TR 
S-Crack TR 
Sagas 50 T,TR 
Some boulder problem with a crack 
Straight Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 
Torture Chamber Traverse 
Tree Roof TR 
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 
West Crack TR 
West Flake TR 
WTF T 

Torture Chamber Traverse 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: Gill, 1960s
Page Views: 3,422
Submitted By: Mike Epke on May 23, 2003

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Swanson on the Torture Chamber traverse.

Description 

Begin the problem down the ridge at the end of the first band of rocks, this is the Torture Chamber. The problem is a continuous, juggy traverse up the ridge to the right keeping the feet as high as possible, a long traverse without a doubt. Variations exist, probably all with a FA by Gill too, using smaller holds for the hands and keeping the feet higher. All the variations make the problem more difficult.

Protection 

A pad and a spotter can be helpful, but not at all necessary as the route never is more then a few feet above the ground.


Photos of Torture Chamber Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Niccum on the traverse.
Niccum on the traverse.

Comments on Torture Chamber Traverse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jun 8, 2003

When I first moved here in '73 the "8mm" (beta wasn't around yet) was that on the "real "Torture Traverse your feet couldn't touch the rotten band under the overhang. I would say that done this way, it's probably about v3-4 with 2-3 separate "cruxes" but all in all a heel hooking masterpiece !
By Adam Hicks`
Jul 22, 2003

Old Fart, Gill calls that way the True Torture Chamber, he he. Here's a pic of Gill on it:128.pair.com/r3d4k7/TCT%282003...
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jul 22, 2003

Actually Adam, I just found out on Gill's website that along with "the no feet on the rotten band" rule, Gill say's that his way was "No Heelhooks Allowed" either. Better bump my grading up B1+ !!
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 17, 2005

Oh snap!
By Jordan A.
Nov 2, 2007

Work all the way up (to the obvious pocket end/topout) and back down (left) for a nice little pump. Use the sweet kneebar 3/4 of the way through for extended rest if need be. The rotten band is bad form.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 27, 2009

Without heelhooks, one is essentially campusing most of the problem while smearing their toes along a horizontal roof onto small edges, while completing a forty foot traverse.

For what it's worth, I started the traverse from the upper right end and toe-hooked my way from right-to-left for the first twenty feet or so while facing east from the top. Burly and strenuous, I completed a portion of the problem then jumped off.