Torture Chamber Traverse V1
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| Type: | Boulder |
| Consensus: | V1 [details] |
| FA: | Gill, 1960s |
| Submitted By: | Mike Epke on May 23, 2003 |
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Swanson on the Torture Chamber traverse.
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Southeast Reservoir was closed and is no.
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Description Begin the problem down the ridge at the end of the first band of rocks, this is the Torture Chamber. The problem is a continuous, juggy traverse up the ridge to the right keeping the feet as high as possible, a long traverse without a doubt. Variations exist, probably all with a FA by Gill too, using smaller holds for the hands and keeping the feet higher. All the variations make the problem more difficult.
Protection A pad and a spotter can be helpful, but not at all necessary as the route never is more then a few feet above the ground.
| Comments on Torture Chamber Traverse |
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jun 8, 2003
| When I first moved here in '73 the "8mm" (beta wasn't around yet) was that on the "real "Torture Traverse your feet couldn't touch the rotten band under the overhang. I would say that done this way, it's probably about v3-4 with 2-3 separate "cruxes" but all in all a heel hooking masterpiece ! |
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Jul 22, 2003
| Actually Adam, I just found out on Gill's website that along with "the no feet on the rotten band" rule, Gill say's that his way was "No Heelhooks Allowed" either. Better bump my grading up B1+ !! |
By Jordan A.
Nov 2, 2007
| Work all the way up (to the obvious pocket end/topout) and back down (left) for a nice little pump. Use the sweet kneebar 3/4 of the way through for extended rest if need be. The rotten band is bad form. |
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 27, 2009
| Without heelhooks, one is essentially campusing most of the problem while smearing their toes along a horizontal roof onto small edges, while completing a forty foot traverse.
For what it's worth, I started the traverse from the upper right end and toe-hooked my way from right-to-left for the first twenty feet or so while facing east from the top. Burly and strenuous, I completed a portion of the problem then jumped off. |
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