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Warmup at the Halfways, The 

Torso Fritter 

Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Dan Dewell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 986
Submitted By: Joshua Dreher on Jul 11, 2007

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Chase Gardner sticking the first move. The right h...
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Description 

This classic problem is the low start to Open Wide and is on the Largest Boulder. It starts on the left side (just slightly to the right of the arete) of the face lying parallel to the trail to Baldy. Start scrunched down with your right hand on an ok side pull sloper and left on a small edge to the left in the indented section of rock (your left hand will start slightly lower than your right). Climb up and left to the arete then climb back right to an amazing scoop/jug at the top of the boulder. Classic movement. Grade is still up for debate. Between V7 and V8.

There is also a variation that is quite fun as well. It climbs left to the arete but instead of throwing for the higher sloper on the arete, throw lower to a juggy side pull. Now sort of mantel left onto the platform.


Protection 

You will want at the very least two pads. One underneath you to start and one laying on the boulder to your left. If you only have two pads I recommend a spotter.



Photos of Torso Fritter Slideshow Add Photo
Dan Dewell getting the first ascent of Torso Fritter.
Dan Dewell getting the first ascent of Torso Fritt...
This is me topping out Torso Fritter while being spotted by Tyler. The photo was taken by Christian Baird.
This is me topping out Torso Fritter while being s...
mr D
mr D
Comments on Torso Fritter Add Comment
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By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Mar 4, 2014

This problem is Unrepeated as of 2014. DD showed me the actual Sds line. What people climb now is just a SDS to Open Wide (V5). DD pointed the exact line out on a hike. It starts slightly right of Up The Funk and moves left into Open Wide.

By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Mar 7, 2014

Hmmm. The line as described was what was shown to me. It's also amazing as is and starting out right seems overly contrived. He's most likely remembering it incorrectly. He's pretty old.