Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Anti-Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asymmetry T 
Bat Ass Crack T 
BattleAxe T 
Chicken Fingers T 
Differential Equations T 
Heckle and Jive T,S 
Last Chance T 
Old Grey Mare S 
Rabid Snake T 
Sweet Singularity S 
Symmetry T 
Torreoncito T 

Torreoncito 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C1 [details]
FA: Manny Rangel, Arjun Heimsath
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Aug 1, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Easy 5th up bushy gully east/left of tower; climb ...

Description 

Getting through the thin crack up high is difficult. We aided it but it would go free with hard tips and fingers. The first part of route to a pod is not too difficult; center very difficult then the last third of route where it goes left on a rail is exposed and has some brittle rock next to great rock (pro is solid).

Location 

Just upstream and same side as Anti crag routes. Wander up left side of wall forming the tower; starts on easy slab (4th class) then easy 5th at a chimney to tree belay. Steep 4th to shoulder/ledge with tower on it. Climb north face of tower. Rap bolts get you below the ledge to top of chimney. Rap off tree to ground.

Protection 

Double C3s, sm-med nuts, double #.5 to #2

Bolted anchor/single 60m


Photos of Torreoncito Slideshow Add Photo
Working up the overhang to the pod. This sets you ...
Working up the overhang to the pod. This sets you ...
Arjun cleaning on rap. Drops into the ledge below....
Arjun cleaning on rap. Drops into the ledge below....

Comments on Torreoncito Add Comment
Show which comments
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 1, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1

Good eye on finding this tower, Manny! Am guessing that the thin tips crack will go free at 12 or 12+ with solid gear to protect, as our aiding through it proved. Will make for a nice free route for sure.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Aug 3, 2012

Still thinking about a piton mid way up the crack. It would provide solid pro through the struggle and keep the pro in line above.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 3, 2012

A pin, really? No pins. Pins suck after a while. If you want permanent gear drill a bolt. Which reminds me I need to start a thread about using pins for anything other than aid to drill a bomber bolt.

Looks like a cool route Manny. Go with small cams and double them up at each placement.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1

Yeah, I have to agree, no pins. After aiding that crack the way I did I feel good about the pro in it and a stronger climber than I will likely not flinch at the 12+ free moves needed to get it clean on gear. Or, if you want someone like me to be more likely to at least try to do it free, then I'd go with the bolt off to the side -- here's a deal for you, I'll carry my light Bosch down next time and will be happy to do it while hanging on a couple of those small nuts!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Aug 15, 2012

Eric you have a point. This is soft rock and the pin wouldn't be very reliable after a season or two.

Still, I would rather have it bolt and pin free. It would be for me since I can't conceive of hanging and placing gear at the crux. I'll leave it as is and wait for a 12+ thin crack afficionado!