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Torre Principal

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Chocolate Liquido (6a+) 
Clemenzo 
Ruta Normal 
Sarandonga e Chicharones 
Sinestro Total 

Torre Principal 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Page Views: 8,284
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: David Trippett on Nov 27, 2007
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The steep 6b headwall fist crack of Sinestro Total...

Description 

The Principal is the largest of the towers of Frey. Several routes of varying difficulty ascend every aspect.


Getting There 

From the refugio ascend to the saddle to the west of the lake and approach past the Aguja M2 and Abuelo, ascend snow slopes and scree to the base of the Principal. Depending on your route choice you will need to modify your approach.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Torre Principal:
Clemenzo   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Ruta Normal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
Chocolate Liquido (6a+)   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Sinestro Total   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Classics in Torre Principal

Featured Route For Torre Principal
Dennis starts up Clemenzo.

Clemenzo 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a  South America : Argentina : ... : Torre Principal
This is a ... six pitch route? I believe we did it in six. The first two are easy climbing 4a to 4b, eventually reaching a ledge belay, followed by a 5a section to a second ledge belay. After that, there's a pitch topped with a fantastic cave that contains a giant triangle which requires you to walk out towards space. In the back wall are wedged old pieces of wood. The route still has quite a few old pitons, some having been replaced by bolts. The summit block is technically the most diffi...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Torre Principal Add Comment
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By David Appelhans
From: Lafayette
Jan 10, 2009

A better approach is found by following the lake shore to the end of the cirque then heading left up a gully with a stream. It took us 3 hours to navigate to the principal via the ridge line, but several days later we made it to the base in 1.5 hours following the lake and gully as suggested in the guidebook.

By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 12, 2009

Hey! Aren't you that same guy that tried to climb Sinestro Total and ended up on the East face? That was a crazy story!

It really depends on your familiarity with the area, Dave. Many locals and people who know their way around go from the saddle. If you're not sure where you're going, it maybe better to use the lake.