Josh Beckner reaching the summit of Torre Principa...
The Principal is the largest of the towers of Frey. Several routes of varying difficulty ascend every aspect.
From the refugio ascend to the saddle to the west of the lake and approach past the Aguja M2 and Abuelo, ascend snow slopes and scree to the base of the Principal. Depending on your route choice you will need to modify your approach.
Weather station 0.7 miles from here
5 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Torre Principal
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Torre Principal:
Clemenzo 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Ruta Normal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Torre Principal
Sinestro Total 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b South America
: ... : Torre Principal
The Sinestro starts near the base of a steep, loose 4th class gully that you approach from the east. A couple raps and a lot of scrambling bring you to the base.Pitch one begins at the base of a slabby ramp next to a left facing corner with a seam, climb next to this on face cracks. After the ramp, climb a steep, but short, headwall with a technical and thin crux(6b). From here, easier climbing arrives at a cool belay ledge.Pitch two ascends through a strange bulge/step around to the right and i...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By David Appelhans
Jan 10, 2009
A better approach is found by following the lake shore to the end of the cirque then heading left up a gully with a stream. It took us 3 hours to navigate to the principal via the ridge line, but several days later we made it to the base in 1.5 hours following the lake and gully as suggested in the guidebook.
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 12, 2009
Hey! Aren't you that same guy that tried to climb Sinestro Total and ended up on the East face? That was a crazy story!
It really depends on your familiarity with the area, Dave. Many locals and people who know their way around go from the saddle. If you're not sure where you're going, it maybe better to use the lake.