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Torre Principal

Select Route:
Chocolate Liquido (6a+) T 
Clemenzo T 
Ruta Normal T 
Sarandonga e Chicharones T 
Sinestro Total T 

Torre Principal 


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Elevation: 7,500'
Page Views: 8,891
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: David Trippett on Nov 27, 2007
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The steep 6b headwall fist crack of Sinestro Total...

Description 

The Principal is the largest of the towers of Frey. Several routes of varying difficulty ascend every aspect.


Getting There 

From the refugio ascend to the saddle to the west of the lake and approach past the Aguja M2 and Abuelo, ascend snow slopes and scree to the base of the Principal. Depending on your route choice you will need to modify your approach.


Climbing Season


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Torre Principal:
Clemenzo   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Ruta Normal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
Chocolate Liquido (6a+)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Sinestro Total   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Classics in Torre Principal

Featured Route For Torre Principal
Third pitch of Ruta Normal, wide crack through beautiful steep, white granite, that may feel like the crux of the route for most climbers.

Ruta Normal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  South America : Argentina : ... : Torre Principal
The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.Beautiful, steep granite, with nice crack and face-climbing and a fantastic summit! The route h...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Torre Principal Add Comment
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By David Appelhans
From: Lafayette
Jan 10, 2009

A better approach is found by following the lake shore to the end of the cirque then heading left up a gully with a stream. It took us 3 hours to navigate to the principal via the ridge line, but several days later we made it to the base in 1.5 hours following the lake and gully as suggested in the guidebook.

By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 12, 2009

Hey! Aren't you that same guy that tried to climb Sinestro Total and ended up on the East face? That was a crazy story!

It really depends on your familiarity with the area, Dave. Many locals and people who know their way around go from the saddle. If you're not sure where you're going, it maybe better to use the lake.