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Falzarego Towers
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Torre Grande di Falzarego West Face T 
Torre Piccola di Falzarego West Face, Via Normale. T 
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici T 
Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" T 

Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 750'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Scoiattoli Group, Cortina
Season: Summer and Autumn
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Sep 14, 2013

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Exposed traverse on pitch 2.

Description 

The route consists of 9 wonderful leads of exposed climbing on excellent rock. Pitch 1 is quite easy and is fairly short, ending on a decent belay stance after about only 50 feet. Pitch 2 traverses left (exposed but easy climbing) to a short dihedral which terminates atop a flake (same belay as Comici Route). Pitch 3 climbs diagonally right, trending towards a chimney/gully system. Pitch 4 follows the gully/chimney and involves a bit of fun stemming. Pitch 5 is the crux, and may have a move or 2 approaching the 5.7 level (old school 5.6, UIAA Gr. IV+), where a finger traverse left is needed to surmount a tricky, slightly overhanging section with poor footholds. Pitch 6 is the real reason for doing the route: a marvelous slab with beautiful holds for both hands and feet, never exceeding 5.5 in difficulty. Natural protection with several drilled and cemented pitons. Pitch 7 diagonals left towards the Comici Arete, and all subsequent pitches are congruent with the Comici route described elsewhere.

Location 

This route begins about 30 feet right from the "Comici Route" start.
Descent is initially a short downclimb to a drilled in anchor to the North, about 15 feet below the summit spire. Two abseils are needed to reach a platform between the two Falzarego Towers. Descend through the split between the massifs; some spots are quite steep and polished and may require a rope. There are a few knobs where a short abseil may be prudent. Once out of the gully between the towers, additional steep terrain is encountered until an old military mule track road is reached. The descent is NOT pleasant.

Protection 

All necessary protection is fixed, either bolts at the belays or cemented in pitons. Numerous threads are also possible.


Photos of Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" Slideshow Add Photo
Rodger at the summit spire!
Rodger at the summit spire!
Still on the marvelous slab!
Still on the marvelous slab!
Closeup view of military ruins at base of Falzareg...
Closeup view of military ruins at base of Falzareg...
Climbers on Kleiner Falzaregoturm; either Via dell...
Climbers on Kleiner Falzaregoturm; either Via dell...
Climbing the marvelous slab pitch at 5.4 and 5.5 f...
Climbing the marvelous slab pitch at 5.4 and 5.5 f...
Stemming the chimney/gully on lead four.
Stemming the chimney/gully on lead four.
Approximate line of route; actual start may vary. ...
BETA PHOTO: Approximate line of route; actual start may vary. ...
Mauro Bernardi (L) and some Swiss climbers at the ...
Mauro Bernardi (L) and some Swiss climbers at the ...
The extremely exposed but easy 2nd lead.
The extremely exposed but easy 2nd lead.
South Faces of the two Falzarego Towers. The Klein...
South Faces of the two Falzarego Towers. The Klein...
Tied off "Sanduhr," or thread.
Tied off "Sanduhr," or thread.

Comments on Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" Add Comment
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By Rodger Raubach
Sep 14, 2013

An additional comment re: descent. The descent is arduous and time consuming; don't underestimate how long it will take to get off the peak. Maybe that I was nursing an injured knee has affected my viewpoint, but others have expressed similar comments to me privately.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 20, 2013

Via della Guide and via Comici are quite close by to one another. and the second belay of Via della Guide is shared with the Comici route; the final 3 pitches of the 2 routes are also congruent.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 7, 2014

A recent discussion of the rock quality with guidebook author Mauro bernardi, between the starts to the Comici vs. Via della Guide confirms what I had been told by other climbers visiting the area. The start of the Comici has some pretty awful rock. I gave a 4 star quality rating to Via della Guida on that basis.