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Torre Grande di Falzarego West Face 
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici 

Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici 

5.6 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 7 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: Emilio Comici, Sandro del Torso and Mary Varale Aug 1934
Submitted By: RKM on Jan 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Torre Piccola and Torre Grande (blended in behind)...

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Description 

From the old road below some rock ruins, head straight up to the base of the wall. You will be to the right of the actual ridge. Climb the direct start (5.8) for 100' rather than traversing in from the right on ledges and head left to the spectacular and exposed ridge.


Location 

From the tiny summit, downclimb a bit and do a 25m rappel to the gully between the Piccola and the Grande.


Protection 

Mostly fixed, a few wired stoppers and runners.



Photos of Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the exposed ridge line from near the top.

Looking down the exposed ridge line from near the ...

Looking back at the summits from the east.  Notice the rock ruins at the base of the wall.  Start right of the chimney - staying a little right until you meet the ridge.

Looking back at the summits from the east. Notice...

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Comments on Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici Add Comment
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By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Jan 16, 2012

Doing these two routes in an afternoon from Cortina is a perfect choice. Both are reasonable solos. I've done the Comici both ways. If you solo, I took a light 150' 7mm cord for the rap off of Piccola. If you want to risk it - you probably can catch a rappel from other parties and not take the rope (sort of like coming off the Grand Teton). The Torre Grande is a walk off or light scramble to the north and then west.