Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici
||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 450', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Emilio Comici, Sandro del Torso and Mary Varale Aug 1934|
|Page Views: ||875|
|Submitted By: ||RKM on Jan 16, 2012|
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Torre Piccola and Torre Grande (blended in behind)...
From the old road below some rock ruins, head straight up to the base of the wall. You will be to the right of the actual ridge. Climb the direct start (5.8) for 100' rather than traversing in from the right on ledges and head left to the spectacular and exposed ridge.
From the tiny summit, downclimb a bit and do a 25m rappel to the gully between the Piccola and the Grande.
Mostly fixed, a few wired stoppers and runners.
Looking down the exposed ridge line from near the ...
Kleiner Falzaregoturm from the Alpini shelter abov...
Looking back at the summits from the east. Notice...
The "Comici Route" stays pretty close to...
Four climbers visible on the final arête pitches ...
|Comments on Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Jan 16, 2012
Doing these two routes (the Torre Grande di Falzarego - West Face and the Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete) in an afternoon from Cortina is a perfect choice. Both are reasonable solos. I've done the Comici both ways. If you solo, take a light 150' 7mm cord for the rap off of Piccola. If you want to risk it - you probably can catch a rappel from other parties and not take the rope (sort of like coming off the Grand Teton). The Torre Grande is a walk off or light scramble to the north and then west.