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Falzarego Towers
Routes Sorted
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Torre Grande di Falzarego West Face T 
Torre Piccola di Falzarego West Face, Via Normale. T 
Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici T 
Torre Piccola, "via della Guide" T 

Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 450', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Emilio Comici, Sandro del Torso and Mary Varale Aug 1934
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: RKM on Jan 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Torre Piccola and Torre Grande (blended in behind)...

Description 

From the old road below some rock ruins, head straight up to the base of the wall. You will be to the right of the actual ridge. Climb the direct start (5.8) for 100' rather than traversing in from the right on ledges and head left to the spectacular and exposed ridge.

Location 

From the tiny summit, downclimb a bit and do a 25m rappel to the gully between the Piccola and the Grande.

Protection 

Mostly fixed, a few wired stoppers and runners.


Photos of Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the exposed ridge line from near the top.
Looking down the exposed ridge line from near the ...
Kleiner Falzaregoturm from the Alpini shelter above the Lagazuoi Seilbahn Base Station. Comici route finishes on the right skyline  for the final 3 leads.
Kleiner Falzaregoturm from the Alpini shelter abov...
Looking back at the summits from the east.  Notice the rock ruins at the base of the wall.  Start right of the chimney - staying a little right until you meet the ridge.
Looking back at the summits from the east. Notice...
The "Comici Route" stays pretty close to the left skyline of the pointy tower on the left; the summit of Kleiner Falzaregoturm is directly above the Lazarett ruins seen at the picture bottom.
The "Comici Route" stays pretty close to the left ...
take a number
take a number
Four climbers visible on the final arÍte pitches shared by both the Comici and via della Guide Routes, Kleiner Falzaregoturm.
Four climbers visible on the final arÍte pitches s...

Comments on Torre Piccola di Falzarego - South Arete - Comici Add Comment
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By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah
Jan 16, 2012

Doing these two routes in an afternoon from Cortina is a perfect choice. Both are reasonable solos. I've done the Comici both ways. If you solo, I took a light 150' 7mm cord for the rap off of Piccola. If you want to risk it - you probably can catch a rappel from other parties and not take the rope (sort of like coming off the Grand Teton). The Torre Grande is a walk off or light scramble to the north and then west.