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The Alley
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Javelina Hardman T 
Tornado in Peril T 

Tornado in Peril 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marcy, Geir, and Doso
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Geir on Feb 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Marcy heaving ho part II.

Description 

This is a surprisingly fun route with varied climbing, good rock, and an old-school feel.

Start in the chimney on the left side of the Alley. Stem, Face Climb, or Chimney up 40' to a large ledge. Clip a bolt, then head up and slightly left to a second bolt. From here continue up aiming to the right of a small shrub on the ledge 70' above. The crux is after the ledge - head straight up past a bolt (5.10) to an anchor just below the summit.

Descent: Do NOT rappel the entire route. Rappel 90' to the large ledge at the top of the chimney, then walk off toward climber's left.


Location 

Left side of the Alley. See overview photo.


Protection 

Stoppers, Doubles to #2 Camalot.



Photos of Tornado in Peril Slideshow Add Photo
Marcy heaving ho part I
Marcy heaving ho part I
Marcy and Geir on the climb, taken from the top of the Coop.
Marcy and Geir on the climb, taken from the top of...
Chawn and Geir finishing up Tornado in Peril
Chawn and Geir finishing up Tornado in Peril
Arjun on an early ascent of Tornado in Peril
Arjun on an early ascent of Tornado in Peril
Geir leading Tornado in Peril
Geir leading Tornado in Peril
Geir leading one of his and Marcy's "clean up" climbs of this really fun climb.
Geir leading one of his and Marcy's "clean up" cli...
Steve from CA leads Tornado in Peril, 4.25.2010
Steve from CA leads Tornado in Peril, 4.25.2010
Comments on Tornado in Peril Add Comment
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By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Feb 7, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route with lots of varied climbing. The rap bolts are just below the actual summit. If you want to completely top out, as was done on the FA, you can build a gear anchor on the east side of the summit block.

Tornados rule!!!!

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A very fun route that has good pro -- you just can't see it until you get there! The "chimney" is especially disconcerting as it looks like a dark blank face that ends up being quite easy. Getting up on top is as delightful as the thoughtful moves were that got you there. Thanks you both for another terrific route, but I guess we need to thank Chewy the "tornado" too!

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Feb 9, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Originally done in 2 pitches only because Geir was so kind to give me a go at the summit. Geir (again) spotted a great line and skillfully lead past several areas of extremely questionable rock including two large blocks (that Arjun captured the removal of pictorially - see photos). I was in complete awe when I climbed through what he had lead past with the drill on his back. We were both pleasantly surprised that this route cleaned up nicely into really fun line. It was awesome to see David/MG and then Arjun/Hanna go up it later that day.

By Jimbo
Apr 27, 2010

Engaging, sustained climbing all the way. Can't see the gear coming but it always does. 5.10b.

If a do this again I'll skip the opening chimney, which doesn't really add much to the route, and belay on the big ledge so I can't watch the leader.