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The Torch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bee's Brunch T 
Lighting the Torch T 
Live and Let Dyno S 
Periscope T 
Rest and Digest T 
Torch View T 
Torched T 
Torchfinger T 
Torchraker T 

Torchfinger 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This is a generally easy climb on solid rock that is a fun way to access the base of the Torch. It is also possible to do this route and connect directly to Torched to do the two routes in one pitch. Use long runners if attempting this. Named after the James Bond, "Goldfinger".

Hardest move is protected by the bolt at the base. The climb is on good rock that protects well and enables a nice warm-up climb to get to the base of the Torch. There are anchors here that can be used to establish for the three southern climbs up the Torch: “Lighting”, “Torchraker”, and “Torched.”

Location 

On the east side of the Torch, begins at the base of the lower wall. See route map.

Protection 

Full rack of cams.


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By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 23, 2013

Heads up-may be harder than 5.8 IMO... 5.9 or 5.9+ for the first 20ft? Then eases nicely. -or I had a bad climbing day-this could very well be the case too...
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Apr 10, 2016

Yup, fair enough, the first few moves are likely harder than 5.8. Getting to the bolt likely tricky, but you're not far up and a good spot is a good spot. The single bolt near the base of the face with a swath of greenish lichen going up it marks the start of the climb. Seems like a semi trail is starting to be made from the base of "Wall Drug" around climber's right of that face and up to the base of this climb. Works well. Sorry about not having any pics handy for this, will try to remember next time out.

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